Fast forward to May 19, 2005 at 6:30 p.m. You're so hungry that you can't decide where to dine. Should you feast on sushi at Haru, or are you in the mood for a 22 oz. ribeye at Jacques-Imo? Or maybe you're pining for the paella at Sugar Bar when you suddenly crave Ruby Foo's Peking duck.
I'm about to make your dinner decision much easier. On May 19, you can experience all of these fine restaurants at once, along with goodies from Gabriel's, Compass, Amy's Bread, Ruby et Violette and Soutine Bakery! Where? At the exciting "West Side Flavor," an event that benefits the West End Intergenerational Residence.
In between bites, you'll be able to bid on items like a two-pound box of chocolate truffles and handmade Helen Reiss Jewelry. (If I win the truffles, I promise to share them with you.)
See you there!
West Side Flavor will take place at 6:30 p.m. on Thursday, May 19 at the Congregation Rodeph Sholom, 7 West 83rd St. For more information, please call (212) 769-1685.
Wednesday, April 27, 2005
Tuesday, April 26, 2005
Mother's Day Is May 8
If you happen to run into my mother, please don't let it slip that I'll be surprising her with 8 brownies from Baked NYC. I wonder which brownie she'll dive into first - the peanut butter, the chile cinnamon, or the original dark chocolate?
Baked NYC: 359 Van Brunt St., Brooklyn, (718) 222-0345.
Baked NYC: 359 Van Brunt St., Brooklyn, (718) 222-0345.
Tuesday, April 19, 2005
Murray's Cheese Shop
I don't know when the stretch of Bleecker Street between Leroy and Morton turned into a mini Chelsea Market, but I imagine that the transformation occurred this fall. In November, Murray's Cheese, having bought a large building, moved across the street and soon started renting space to Amy's Bread and Wild Edibles. Now, a shopper needs several hours to fully absorb the cornucopia of deliciousness that is Bleecker Street.
Tonight, I tackled the new, improved Murray's Cheese. (Amy's and Wild Edibles, don't worry, you're next.) Although the salespeople at the old location had been generous with samples and advice, the store was so cramped that a bit of tension always hung in the air. The new store is vast and welcoming. There's even a room upstairs for cheese education!
I was greeted by an impressive assortment of chorizo and aged cheeses. The first thing that went into my bag was a hunk of Prima Donna, described as a popular Dutch cheese made with Italian cultures. I then looked to my right and noticed many different prepared foods, many involving cheese. There were mascarpone bacon tarts, cheddar onion pies, tins of macaroni and cheese, goat cheese watercress panini... I was speechless!
Walking towards the dairy case on the left, I noticed that Murray's now sells their own smoked salmon in addition to their famous horseradish cream cheese. There were containers of creme fraiche, homemade basil pesto, grillable halloumi cheese, crumbled blue Stilton, fresh mozzarella, and many other goodies. Just past the dairy case were shelves of jarred condiments. I picked up some hazelnut cream, roasted piquillo peppers, and lavender honey with mixed nuts.
Between the dairy case and the cheese case there was dried pasta in bulk, and even a selection of my favorite food: chocolate! Of course I had to pick up the box of single-bean chocolates from ten different countries.
Moving towards the cheese case, I was entranced with a black truffle-dusted Brie and a wedge of baked lemon ricotta. The cheese descriptions on the blackboard were irresistible... how could you not buy a Gruyere Vieux described as tasting "like white chocolate?" (I succumbed.)
Although I somehow resisted the Cerignola olives, I did grab a loaf of Amy's Pugliese bread. However, my shopping bag was now so heavy that I knew it was time to go.
Murray's Cheese: 254 Bleecker St., (212) 243-3289.
Tonight, I tackled the new, improved Murray's Cheese. (Amy's and Wild Edibles, don't worry, you're next.) Although the salespeople at the old location had been generous with samples and advice, the store was so cramped that a bit of tension always hung in the air. The new store is vast and welcoming. There's even a room upstairs for cheese education!
I was greeted by an impressive assortment of chorizo and aged cheeses. The first thing that went into my bag was a hunk of Prima Donna, described as a popular Dutch cheese made with Italian cultures. I then looked to my right and noticed many different prepared foods, many involving cheese. There were mascarpone bacon tarts, cheddar onion pies, tins of macaroni and cheese, goat cheese watercress panini... I was speechless!
Walking towards the dairy case on the left, I noticed that Murray's now sells their own smoked salmon in addition to their famous horseradish cream cheese. There were containers of creme fraiche, homemade basil pesto, grillable halloumi cheese, crumbled blue Stilton, fresh mozzarella, and many other goodies. Just past the dairy case were shelves of jarred condiments. I picked up some hazelnut cream, roasted piquillo peppers, and lavender honey with mixed nuts.
Between the dairy case and the cheese case there was dried pasta in bulk, and even a selection of my favorite food: chocolate! Of course I had to pick up the box of single-bean chocolates from ten different countries.
Moving towards the cheese case, I was entranced with a black truffle-dusted Brie and a wedge of baked lemon ricotta. The cheese descriptions on the blackboard were irresistible... how could you not buy a Gruyere Vieux described as tasting "like white chocolate?" (I succumbed.)
Although I somehow resisted the Cerignola olives, I did grab a loaf of Amy's Pugliese bread. However, my shopping bag was now so heavy that I knew it was time to go.
Murray's Cheese: 254 Bleecker St., (212) 243-3289.
Friday, April 08, 2005
Sweets News
Warm, molten-centered chocolate souffle cake is a popular dessert item at fine New York restaurants. However, one's craving for this dessert may be so intense as to make sitting through dinner unbearable! Fortunately, immediate gratification is now available in the form of individual, sugar-powdered chocolate souffles at Cafe Zaiya. Made to order, the luscious little cakes boast authentically gooey insides. And they're only $1.50!
Café Zaiya: 18 E. 41st St. (212) 779-0600.
(In more unsettling news, my childhood idol, the Cookie Monster, is going on a diet.)
Café Zaiya: 18 E. 41st St. (212) 779-0600.
(In more unsettling news, my childhood idol, the Cookie Monster, is going on a diet.)
Sunday, April 03, 2005
The Chocolate Room
My choco-meter suddenly swung wildly to the right as I walked down Park Slope's 5th Avenue today. There before me, in all of its glory, was The Chocolate Room. I'd been meaning to visit this cafe ever since it opened in February.
The Chocolate Room features the luxurious Knipschildt truffles, which I first discovered at the 2002 Chocolate Show. (Yes, my site now catalogues almost 4 years of gluttony!) But don't think that the offerings stop there. Co-owner Naomi bills The Chocolate Room as "the total chocolate experience," and to that end, she has employed the services of a chocolate-obsessed pastry chef. I recommend that you sit yourself down at a green marble table and order one of the extraordinary desserts. (The chocolate-iced cupcakes and brownies at the counter will still be there to take home when you're finished. Well, they might be.)
Hot chocolate is offered in two strengths: 38% and 60% chocolate. Naturally, I ordered the inky dark hot chocolate, which must be one of the richest beverages ever invented. In addition to hot chocolate, the elegant drink menu features wine, port, and, fittingly, Brooklyn Brewery's Black Chocolate Stout.
It was a struggle to decide among the espresso-chocolate flan, chocolate fondue, chocolate pudding, and lemon-buttermilk souffle drizzled with chocolate. My eventual choice was the chocolate-orange brioche bread pudding. Served in a citrusy coulis, the pudding was not too sweet, and was studded with welcome bursts of dark melted chocolate and pearls of sweet toffee.
I knew that I needed to bring the chocolate experience home for future enjoyment, so I bought an intriguing hot chocolate and coffee stick (a sort of chocolate lollipop intended to melt into one's coffee) and a box of 10 truffles. Naomi said helpfully, "They're less expensive if you choose them yourself instead of buying a pre-packaged box." I ended up with an assortment of caramel-lavender, rosewater, strawberry-lemon-thyme, and raspberry-peppercorn chocolates.
The Chocolate Room: 86 5th Ave., Brooklyn, (718) 783-2900. Cash only.
The Chocolate Room features the luxurious Knipschildt truffles, which I first discovered at the 2002 Chocolate Show. (Yes, my site now catalogues almost 4 years of gluttony!) But don't think that the offerings stop there. Co-owner Naomi bills The Chocolate Room as "the total chocolate experience," and to that end, she has employed the services of a chocolate-obsessed pastry chef. I recommend that you sit yourself down at a green marble table and order one of the extraordinary desserts. (The chocolate-iced cupcakes and brownies at the counter will still be there to take home when you're finished. Well, they might be.)
Hot chocolate is offered in two strengths: 38% and 60% chocolate. Naturally, I ordered the inky dark hot chocolate, which must be one of the richest beverages ever invented. In addition to hot chocolate, the elegant drink menu features wine, port, and, fittingly, Brooklyn Brewery's Black Chocolate Stout.
It was a struggle to decide among the espresso-chocolate flan, chocolate fondue, chocolate pudding, and lemon-buttermilk souffle drizzled with chocolate. My eventual choice was the chocolate-orange brioche bread pudding. Served in a citrusy coulis, the pudding was not too sweet, and was studded with welcome bursts of dark melted chocolate and pearls of sweet toffee.
I knew that I needed to bring the chocolate experience home for future enjoyment, so I bought an intriguing hot chocolate and coffee stick (a sort of chocolate lollipop intended to melt into one's coffee) and a box of 10 truffles. Naomi said helpfully, "They're less expensive if you choose them yourself instead of buying a pre-packaged box." I ended up with an assortment of caramel-lavender, rosewater, strawberry-lemon-thyme, and raspberry-peppercorn chocolates.
The Chocolate Room: 86 5th Ave., Brooklyn, (718) 783-2900. Cash only.
Friday, April 01, 2005
Two Tasty Events
Here are two events to tempt the palate:
- Pinot and Pork Tour
April 11, 6:30 p.m.
Ruby Falls, 609 West 29th St.
Pinot and Pork is a festival which celebrates the versatility of "the other white meat" and matches it with select Pinot Noirs from France and California. Enjoy a live band while sampling traditional and Japanese barbeque. Tickets are on sale at www.kobrandevents.com. - Adventures in the Global Kitchen: Exquisite Mushrooms
April 12, 7 p.m.
American Museum of Natural History (Linder Theatre), Central Park West at 79th St.
Not only will you learn about the global history of mushrooms during this lecture, but you'll also feast on bacon and black-truffle butter canapés! Call (212) 769-5200 to buy a ticket.
Thursday, March 31, 2005
Takahachi Tribeca
So you're craving Nobu, but you can't even get into Next Door Nobu? Just walk a few blocks from Franklin to Duane, where you'll find Takahachi Tribeca. This nouveau Japanese restaurant uses the same excellent fish supplier as Nobu, but prices are more reasonable!
In homage to the neighborhood film festival, chef Jun Orita has named his creative maki after famous movies. Try the "Passage To India," a curried tuna, avocado and mango roll, or the "Godfather," a mouthful of fried oysters, cucumber and Gorgonzola. If your tastes run to the more traditional, there's an extensive a la carte sushi menu, as well as entrees like grilled organic chicken teriyaki, diced prime rib in avocado wasabi sauce, and grilled salmon in green tea salt. The latter was my choice last night; the crispy-skinned salmon arrived with a small salad of cold udon, julienned shiitakes with ginger, and a bowl of snow peas in sweet white miso sauce. I must also mention the vibrant yuzu, white miso and snow pea soup, and the yellowtail tartare appetizer. The tartare, served in a bamboo leaf, was a delectable mixture of yellowtail, creamy sea urchin and crunchy smelt roe.
If only I'd had room for the pumpkin mousse...
Takahachi Tribeca: 145 Duane St., (212) 571-1830.
In homage to the neighborhood film festival, chef Jun Orita has named his creative maki after famous movies. Try the "Passage To India," a curried tuna, avocado and mango roll, or the "Godfather," a mouthful of fried oysters, cucumber and Gorgonzola. If your tastes run to the more traditional, there's an extensive a la carte sushi menu, as well as entrees like grilled organic chicken teriyaki, diced prime rib in avocado wasabi sauce, and grilled salmon in green tea salt. The latter was my choice last night; the crispy-skinned salmon arrived with a small salad of cold udon, julienned shiitakes with ginger, and a bowl of snow peas in sweet white miso sauce. I must also mention the vibrant yuzu, white miso and snow pea soup, and the yellowtail tartare appetizer. The tartare, served in a bamboo leaf, was a delectable mixture of yellowtail, creamy sea urchin and crunchy smelt roe.
If only I'd had room for the pumpkin mousse...
Takahachi Tribeca: 145 Duane St., (212) 571-1830.
Friday, March 25, 2005
Easter Eggs
If you want to quickly prepare a half-dozen hard-boiled eggs for Easter, this gadget comes in quite handy. You'll never run the risk of a cracked shell or a runny yolk ever again.
Another way to enjoy Easter eggs this year is to pick up a loaf of cardamom bread at Amy's Bread. Hard-boiled eggs are baked into the circular loaf. (This bread has been selling out before 11 a.m., so if you miss the deadline, ask for the eggy, sugar-streaked hot cross buns.)
Amy's Bread: Chelsea Market, 75 9th Ave., (212) 462-4338.
Another way to enjoy Easter eggs this year is to pick up a loaf of cardamom bread at Amy's Bread. Hard-boiled eggs are baked into the circular loaf. (This bread has been selling out before 11 a.m., so if you miss the deadline, ask for the eggy, sugar-streaked hot cross buns.)
Amy's Bread: Chelsea Market, 75 9th Ave., (212) 462-4338.
Wednesday, March 23, 2005
A Sign of Spring
Although it's snowing today, I'm confident that spring has sprung. Why? Because last night, I saw the telltale words "fiddlehead ferns" on the menu at Parish & Co (Closed in 2006). These tasty green curlicues, available only in earliest spring, added some crunch to my delectable garbanzo and wheatberry salad in a soy-ginger dressing.
A glass of Riesling, an entrée of rich, buttered potato gnocchi accented with shallots and fried sage, and a lemongrass-lime crème brulee completed my celebration of the season's arrival. To Spring!
Parish & Co.: 202 9th Ave., (212) 414-4988.
A glass of Riesling, an entrée of rich, buttered potato gnocchi accented with shallots and fried sage, and a lemongrass-lime crème brulee completed my celebration of the season's arrival. To Spring!
Parish & Co.: 202 9th Ave., (212) 414-4988.
Thursday, March 17, 2005
Alfanoose
Downtown workers were crestfallen when the original Alfanoose on Fulton Street closed. There was much speculation about the cause of the closing; had the rents gone up or had the business gone down?
Fortunately, those in search of a falafel fix need not waste any more time in idle speculation! Such time would be better spent enjoying the mouthwatering Middle Eastern cuisine at the new, improved Alfanoose. Now with plenty of room and an expanded menu, this beloved restaurant is a destination even for those who have no other reason to visit the Financial District.
All of the traditional sandwiches such as falafel, hummus, and baba ganoush are offered, as well as luscious charcoal-grilled lamb shawarma. For a side dish, there are not just one but *three* versions of mojadara, the traditional lentil pilaf topped with a heap of crisp fried onions. The tangy, tahini-yogurt foul mudamas is excellent as well. (For more food than you know what to do with, order a meat platter: your choice of lamb, chicken, or meat kibbeh comes with your choice of pilaf or green salad, a choice of hummus, baba ganoush or foul mudamas, and best of all, a homemade rolled-up pita bread!
Alfanoose Middle Eastern Cuisine: 8 Maiden Lane, (212) 528-4669.
Fortunately, those in search of a falafel fix need not waste any more time in idle speculation! Such time would be better spent enjoying the mouthwatering Middle Eastern cuisine at the new, improved Alfanoose. Now with plenty of room and an expanded menu, this beloved restaurant is a destination even for those who have no other reason to visit the Financial District.
All of the traditional sandwiches such as falafel, hummus, and baba ganoush are offered, as well as luscious charcoal-grilled lamb shawarma. For a side dish, there are not just one but *three* versions of mojadara, the traditional lentil pilaf topped with a heap of crisp fried onions. The tangy, tahini-yogurt foul mudamas is excellent as well. (For more food than you know what to do with, order a meat platter: your choice of lamb, chicken, or meat kibbeh comes with your choice of pilaf or green salad, a choice of hummus, baba ganoush or foul mudamas, and best of all, a homemade rolled-up pita bread!
Alfanoose Middle Eastern Cuisine: 8 Maiden Lane, (212) 528-4669.
Monday, March 07, 2005
Estiatorio Milos
I know there are much less expensive places to get a great piece of fish, but I've had a soft spot for Milos ever since I first visited about 7 years ago. Maybe it's the open-air market atmosphere... the diner can actually choose a clear-eyed fish right off of its bed of ice. Or maybe it's the loftlike, airy room festooned with parasols. More likely, it's the loukoumades. (More about that later.)
On Friday night, Milos was as packed as if it had just opened last week. Fortunately, my early reservation enabled my mother and I to sit at a lovely corner table.
We started with the Milos Special: a plate of potato-chip-thin fried eggplant and zucchini accented with four chunks of tangy saganaki (tangy melted sheep's milk cheese inside a golden crust).
The entree decision was more difficult than we'd anticipated. Naturally, we wanted whole fish, but there were at least 20 different kinds to choose from. Milos's fish menu is divided into North American and European varieties, and the flavor of each is described in detail. Some fish are only available for two diners to share. (By the way, for those "non-afishanados" among you, there's also a 26-oz. ribeye on the menu.)
I convinced my mother to forgo the Dover sole in favor of the loup de mer ("Europe's most sought-after fish," according to the menu). A whole fish for two and a side of potatoes may sound like a deceptively simple meal, but at Milos it is an explosion of flavor. The olive-oil-bathed potatoes, interspersed with a few sweet cherry tomatoes, were fragrant with garlic, scallions and red onions. The firm-fleshed white loup de mer was downright extraordinary in a light lemon-caper sauce, the meat sweet and the skin toothsomely crispy. I could easily go on the Mediterranean diet if I ate at Milos every day!
Of course, we did indulge in a decadent dessert. The aforementioned loukoumades, hot walnut-sprinkled dough fritters in a thyme-honey-cinnamon syrup, were garnished with a bit of mint. "Take them home so I don't eat any more of them!" pleaded my mother.
Estiatorio Milos: 125 West 55th St., (212) 245-7400.
On Friday night, Milos was as packed as if it had just opened last week. Fortunately, my early reservation enabled my mother and I to sit at a lovely corner table.
We started with the Milos Special: a plate of potato-chip-thin fried eggplant and zucchini accented with four chunks of tangy saganaki (tangy melted sheep's milk cheese inside a golden crust).
The entree decision was more difficult than we'd anticipated. Naturally, we wanted whole fish, but there were at least 20 different kinds to choose from. Milos's fish menu is divided into North American and European varieties, and the flavor of each is described in detail. Some fish are only available for two diners to share. (By the way, for those "non-afishanados" among you, there's also a 26-oz. ribeye on the menu.)
I convinced my mother to forgo the Dover sole in favor of the loup de mer ("Europe's most sought-after fish," according to the menu). A whole fish for two and a side of potatoes may sound like a deceptively simple meal, but at Milos it is an explosion of flavor. The olive-oil-bathed potatoes, interspersed with a few sweet cherry tomatoes, were fragrant with garlic, scallions and red onions. The firm-fleshed white loup de mer was downright extraordinary in a light lemon-caper sauce, the meat sweet and the skin toothsomely crispy. I could easily go on the Mediterranean diet if I ate at Milos every day!
Of course, we did indulge in a decadent dessert. The aforementioned loukoumades, hot walnut-sprinkled dough fritters in a thyme-honey-cinnamon syrup, were garnished with a bit of mint. "Take them home so I don't eat any more of them!" pleaded my mother.
Estiatorio Milos: 125 West 55th St., (212) 245-7400.
Saturday, February 26, 2005
Sweets News
Here are your Sweets News items for February 26, 2005:
Mary's Dairy has opened up a new branch at 158 1st Avenue. In addition to super-premium ice cream, the store is now offering Valrhona-coated fruits, pretzels, marshmallows and graham crackers.
Cha-An, a Japanese "tea & sweets" house, has opened at 230 East 9th Street. Try the green-tea truffles and black sesame creme brulee!
Tarallucci E Vino, the authentic Italian pastry and sandwich shop at 163 First Avenue, is now selling boxed MarieBelle truffles.
And finally, if you think The Gates look good enough to eat, Two Little Red Hens is paying homage to the exhibit by serving up cupcakes with "saffron-colored" icing. (Sunday is the last day to enjoy them!)
Monday, February 21, 2005
La Palapa Rockola
Walking through the West Village on a cold, windy day, I craved some hearty fare. My plan was to head down to No. 26 for a big sandwich on ciabatta, but I happened to notice La Palapa Rockola on the way. It had somehow slipped my mind that the popular East Village Mexican had opened a 6th Avenue outpost.
My stomach growled. The restaurant manager saw me peering intensely into the restaurant window and opened the door. "Why don't you come inside, it's cold out there." That bit of hospitality (and the promise of rice and beans) was enough to change my plans. Happily, I sat down to a cup of Moka D'Oro and looked over the menu.
The specials included an enticing roasted corn soup. On the regular menu were tortas (Mexican sandwiches), assorted quesadillas and tacos stuffed with such goodies as chile-rubbed pork and char-grilled marinated skirt steak, large entrees like enchiladas and shrimp in garlic sauce, and even a 3-course meal that ended with one's choice of Mexican chocolate pudding or flan.
I had a feeling that I'd be eating quite a lot, so I decided not to fill up on the hand-cut tortilla chips. I started with the soup, which was a delicious, creamy puree of sweet roasted corn with a mound of huitlacoche (corn mushrooms) and tangy sour cream floating on top. The hearty soup was almost a meal in itself.
Never one to stop at soup, however, I also ordered a poblano chile quesadilla and a side of beans and rice. Although La Palapa Rockola serves its quesadillas in flour tortillas, my request for a corn tortilla was cheerfully accommodated. The slightly crisp tortilla, cut in quarters, was chock-full of melted cheese and spicy peppers. I dipped it in salsa verde and pico de gallo. The refried black beans were sprinkled with melted queso anejo, and the tomato rice was fragrant with saffron. I was certainly glad I'd stopped in!
La Palapa Rockola: 359 6th Ave., (212) 243-6870.
My stomach growled. The restaurant manager saw me peering intensely into the restaurant window and opened the door. "Why don't you come inside, it's cold out there." That bit of hospitality (and the promise of rice and beans) was enough to change my plans. Happily, I sat down to a cup of Moka D'Oro and looked over the menu.
The specials included an enticing roasted corn soup. On the regular menu were tortas (Mexican sandwiches), assorted quesadillas and tacos stuffed with such goodies as chile-rubbed pork and char-grilled marinated skirt steak, large entrees like enchiladas and shrimp in garlic sauce, and even a 3-course meal that ended with one's choice of Mexican chocolate pudding or flan.
I had a feeling that I'd be eating quite a lot, so I decided not to fill up on the hand-cut tortilla chips. I started with the soup, which was a delicious, creamy puree of sweet roasted corn with a mound of huitlacoche (corn mushrooms) and tangy sour cream floating on top. The hearty soup was almost a meal in itself.
Never one to stop at soup, however, I also ordered a poblano chile quesadilla and a side of beans and rice. Although La Palapa Rockola serves its quesadillas in flour tortillas, my request for a corn tortilla was cheerfully accommodated. The slightly crisp tortilla, cut in quarters, was chock-full of melted cheese and spicy peppers. I dipped it in salsa verde and pico de gallo. The refried black beans were sprinkled with melted queso anejo, and the tomato rice was fragrant with saffron. I was certainly glad I'd stopped in!
La Palapa Rockola: 359 6th Ave., (212) 243-6870.
Wednesday, February 09, 2005
Chocolate And Lavender
Lavender is known for its calming properties. According to a University of Miami study, just three minutes of lavender aromatherapy left participants feeling more relaxed. But if all you have is one minute, I'd suggest picking up a chocolate-lavender Tranquility bar. I found this Belgian chocolate bar at Zeytuna's downtown, and felt wonderful after just one bite!
New Tree USA chocolate bars are sold at several NYC gourmet groceries, including Zeytuna: 99 William St., (212) 742-2436, and A.L. Bazzini.
New Tree USA chocolate bars are sold at several NYC gourmet groceries, including Zeytuna: 99 William St., (212) 742-2436, and A.L. Bazzini.
Monday, February 07, 2005
Sarabeth's East
Pardon me a moment while I wipe the chocolate pudding off of my computer keyboard. As I type this, I'm spooning out every last chocolate shaving, mound of whipped cream and smidgen of chocolate custard from a glass jar (courtesy of Sarabeth's East). I made out like a bandit today at the famous bakery-restaurant, bringing home some chocolate cherry bread, brownies, chocolate souffle cake (do you sense a theme here?) and the above-mentioned pudding.
Honestly, I didn't intend to come away with so many goodies. My original intention was to indulge my rediscovered appetite for breakfast. I was already familiar with Sarabeth's excellent, naturally-thickened preserves, and I'd fantasized about spreading the strawberry-peach jam on a fresh hot scone.
I was amazed at the line of people waiting when I arrived around 1 p.m. (Sarabeth's only takes dinner reservations.) However, I had plenty of entertainment looking at the display case full of baked goods.
The wait was only ten minutes. Soon, after making that age-old decision between sweet and savory, I was enjoying a delightful breakfast. A scrumptious cherry-shallot dressing livened up some mixed greens. White truffle oil added an earthy complexity to a potato leek spinach soup. Three-pepper home fries were nicely browned, although the peppers and onions arrived in a heap over the potatoes (I prefer them interspersed). The smoked salmon eggs Benedict consisted of two Hollandaise-glazed jumbo eggs, which sat happily atop two homemade cornmeal-dusted English muffins amid a garnish of diced sweet red peppers and scallions. Raisin scones, which weren't served warmed, were nevertheless buttery and delicious. I slathered them with the strawberry-peach preserves.
The hearty meal held me until now, hence my voracious chocolate pudding consumption. Excuse me while I enjoy the last bite!
Sarabeth's (East) 1295 Madison Ave., (212) 410-7335. There are also locations at 423 Amsterdam Ave. and 945 Madison Ave., as well as a bakery at Chelsea Market.
Honestly, I didn't intend to come away with so many goodies. My original intention was to indulge my rediscovered appetite for breakfast. I was already familiar with Sarabeth's excellent, naturally-thickened preserves, and I'd fantasized about spreading the strawberry-peach jam on a fresh hot scone.
I was amazed at the line of people waiting when I arrived around 1 p.m. (Sarabeth's only takes dinner reservations.) However, I had plenty of entertainment looking at the display case full of baked goods.
The wait was only ten minutes. Soon, after making that age-old decision between sweet and savory, I was enjoying a delightful breakfast. A scrumptious cherry-shallot dressing livened up some mixed greens. White truffle oil added an earthy complexity to a potato leek spinach soup. Three-pepper home fries were nicely browned, although the peppers and onions arrived in a heap over the potatoes (I prefer them interspersed). The smoked salmon eggs Benedict consisted of two Hollandaise-glazed jumbo eggs, which sat happily atop two homemade cornmeal-dusted English muffins amid a garnish of diced sweet red peppers and scallions. Raisin scones, which weren't served warmed, were nevertheless buttery and delicious. I slathered them with the strawberry-peach preserves.
The hearty meal held me until now, hence my voracious chocolate pudding consumption. Excuse me while I enjoy the last bite!
Sarabeth's (East) 1295 Madison Ave., (212) 410-7335. There are also locations at 423 Amsterdam Ave. and 945 Madison Ave., as well as a bakery at Chelsea Market.
Sunday, January 30, 2005
Get Out Of Town!
Although I've been fending off the winter blues with numerous cups of cocoa, the latest subzero spell has drained me. Noticing my gloominess, my companion suggested that we rejuvenate ourselves with a bed-and-breakfast stay.
Armed with "Frommer's Wonderful Weekends from New York City" and the Internet, I set about finding an inn that was close to the LIRR. During my Web search, I happened upon the homepage of the Mill House Inn. I'd had a couple other places in mind for our excursion, but when I clicked on the Mill House breakfast menu, my mind was made up.
When we arrived, we were greeted by six canisters of cookies, a friendly dog named Corey, and Sylvia, the co-owner of the inn. Sylvia invited us to help ourselves to the cookies, and then led us into the dining room, which offered delicious hot cider, Mill House coffee and Bencheley tea. I accompanied my cider with homemade chocolate-chip and double chocolate-chip cookies. My mood was beginning to lighten (if not my weight). While I was munching, a guest sang the praises of the Mill House morning meal. "It's legendary," she said, "but you can only enjoy it if you're staying here. I'm meeting a real estate broker, and he asked me if he could pretend to be my guest just so he could have the breakfast." I couldn't wait for Sunday morning.
An invigorating scrub with honey-lemongrass soap and a soak in a lavender-scented whirlpool bath were a wonderful prelude to a nap under a goose-down comforter. (Later, we roused ourselves for an exquisite dinner at Della Femina. This restaurant is truly a subject for another post, but I must mention in passing their astonishing banana chocolate-chip croissant bread pudding. I'd never eaten a bread pudding made from croissants, and the flaky dough added extra butter to what was already a decadent treat.)
The next morning, we made sure to wake up by 10, as the brunch at Mill House is served only until 10:30. In the dining room, the four round wooden tables were festooned with poinsettias, and sunlight streamed through the windows. Smiling, I picked up my menu, to be met with the most daunting breakfast decision ever. I craved eggs, but did I want them scrambled with house-cured salmon, mascarpone, Vidalia onions and asparagus, or in egg nog form in the three-slice brioche French toast, or in a crawfish Andouille etoufee, or fried with chorizo, ancho, chipotle and pasillo peppers and tortillas, or how about in a five-cheese (mozzarella, grana padano, mascarpone, ricotta salata and Parmigiano Reggiano) frittata? And if I didn't want eggs, there were blueberry pancakes with Vermont maple syrup, grilled sandwiches, even three kinds of pizza!
With a bit of gracious guidance from Sylvia, we finally decided on the Irish oatmeal, green eggs and ham, scrambled eggs gratin, homefries and toast. We were first served a selection of fresh fruits with Champagne mint honey syrup (excellent over the blackberries).
Then it was time for... the best breakfast I can remember eating. Satisfyingly chewy Irish oatmeal arrived with a stripe of sweet berry compote and hot milk. My eggs gratin was a casserole of soft, Gruyere-gooey scrambled eggs, topped with snipped chives, shredded Parmigiano Reggiano and a sprinkling of breadcrumbs over a layer of caramelized onions and leeks, and then another layer of eggs. My companion's green eggs and ham, also served in a casserole, was quite generous with the Canadian bacon, spinach and Brie. The homemade sweet-tart ketchup was tasty, but the amazing Yukon Gold homefries needed no condiments. The crunchy-soft potato cubes were browned in olive oil and white wine and seasoned with garlic and thyme. And I couldn't even finish the hearty seven-grain toast and Vermont farm butter.
Our spirits lifted, and our bodies nutritionally fortified against any possible weather conditions, we packed up and made a note to return again soon.
The Mill House Inn: 31 North Main St., East Hampton, (631) 324-9766.
Armed with "Frommer's Wonderful Weekends from New York City" and the Internet, I set about finding an inn that was close to the LIRR. During my Web search, I happened upon the homepage of the Mill House Inn. I'd had a couple other places in mind for our excursion, but when I clicked on the Mill House breakfast menu, my mind was made up.
When we arrived, we were greeted by six canisters of cookies, a friendly dog named Corey, and Sylvia, the co-owner of the inn. Sylvia invited us to help ourselves to the cookies, and then led us into the dining room, which offered delicious hot cider, Mill House coffee and Bencheley tea. I accompanied my cider with homemade chocolate-chip and double chocolate-chip cookies. My mood was beginning to lighten (if not my weight). While I was munching, a guest sang the praises of the Mill House morning meal. "It's legendary," she said, "but you can only enjoy it if you're staying here. I'm meeting a real estate broker, and he asked me if he could pretend to be my guest just so he could have the breakfast." I couldn't wait for Sunday morning.
An invigorating scrub with honey-lemongrass soap and a soak in a lavender-scented whirlpool bath were a wonderful prelude to a nap under a goose-down comforter. (Later, we roused ourselves for an exquisite dinner at Della Femina. This restaurant is truly a subject for another post, but I must mention in passing their astonishing banana chocolate-chip croissant bread pudding. I'd never eaten a bread pudding made from croissants, and the flaky dough added extra butter to what was already a decadent treat.)
The next morning, we made sure to wake up by 10, as the brunch at Mill House is served only until 10:30. In the dining room, the four round wooden tables were festooned with poinsettias, and sunlight streamed through the windows. Smiling, I picked up my menu, to be met with the most daunting breakfast decision ever. I craved eggs, but did I want them scrambled with house-cured salmon, mascarpone, Vidalia onions and asparagus, or in egg nog form in the three-slice brioche French toast, or in a crawfish Andouille etoufee, or fried with chorizo, ancho, chipotle and pasillo peppers and tortillas, or how about in a five-cheese (mozzarella, grana padano, mascarpone, ricotta salata and Parmigiano Reggiano) frittata? And if I didn't want eggs, there were blueberry pancakes with Vermont maple syrup, grilled sandwiches, even three kinds of pizza!
With a bit of gracious guidance from Sylvia, we finally decided on the Irish oatmeal, green eggs and ham, scrambled eggs gratin, homefries and toast. We were first served a selection of fresh fruits with Champagne mint honey syrup (excellent over the blackberries).
Then it was time for... the best breakfast I can remember eating. Satisfyingly chewy Irish oatmeal arrived with a stripe of sweet berry compote and hot milk. My eggs gratin was a casserole of soft, Gruyere-gooey scrambled eggs, topped with snipped chives, shredded Parmigiano Reggiano and a sprinkling of breadcrumbs over a layer of caramelized onions and leeks, and then another layer of eggs. My companion's green eggs and ham, also served in a casserole, was quite generous with the Canadian bacon, spinach and Brie. The homemade sweet-tart ketchup was tasty, but the amazing Yukon Gold homefries needed no condiments. The crunchy-soft potato cubes were browned in olive oil and white wine and seasoned with garlic and thyme. And I couldn't even finish the hearty seven-grain toast and Vermont farm butter.
Our spirits lifted, and our bodies nutritionally fortified against any possible weather conditions, we packed up and made a note to return again soon.
The Mill House Inn: 31 North Main St., East Hampton, (631) 324-9766.
Tuesday, January 18, 2005
Four Reasons To Go Outside
As my hands turned red and my eyelashes threatened to freeze together, I chastised myself for venturing out into the Arctic weather. However, it was just then that I noticed a sign advertising four kinds of hot chocolate (orange, mint, praline and cinnamon)! The sign belonged to Manon Cafe, a cafe owned by Leonidas Chocolate.
I'm rather particular about hot chocolate. A regular cup of cocoa won't do... no powdered hydrogenated vegetable oil or flavored corn syrup for me! I need the real thing: melted squares of rich chocolate, smoothly blended with steamed milk. On several occasions, I have greatly enjoyed Leonidas' chocolate truffles, so I decided to try my luck with their hot chocolate.
I walked past the truffle display and up the steps to the cafe. Behind the counter, I saw what appeared to be bottles of flavored syrup. Disappointed, I asked the cashier if the syrups provided the flavors for the advertised hot chocolate.
"No!" he exclaimed. "Our hot chocolate is made only with squares of our pure Leonidas chocolate, blended with hot milk."
That clinched it. I ordered a large "Manon Mint" hot chocolate, which was thrillingly rich and creamy. The cup warmed my hands and the hot chocolate warmed my insides, making my trip outside thoroughly worthwhile.
Manon Cafe: 3 Hanover Square, (212) 422-9600.
I'm rather particular about hot chocolate. A regular cup of cocoa won't do... no powdered hydrogenated vegetable oil or flavored corn syrup for me! I need the real thing: melted squares of rich chocolate, smoothly blended with steamed milk. On several occasions, I have greatly enjoyed Leonidas' chocolate truffles, so I decided to try my luck with their hot chocolate.
I walked past the truffle display and up the steps to the cafe. Behind the counter, I saw what appeared to be bottles of flavored syrup. Disappointed, I asked the cashier if the syrups provided the flavors for the advertised hot chocolate.
"No!" he exclaimed. "Our hot chocolate is made only with squares of our pure Leonidas chocolate, blended with hot milk."
That clinched it. I ordered a large "Manon Mint" hot chocolate, which was thrillingly rich and creamy. The cup warmed my hands and the hot chocolate warmed my insides, making my trip outside thoroughly worthwhile.
Manon Cafe: 3 Hanover Square, (212) 422-9600.
Saturday, January 15, 2005
Centolire
My grandmother, who frequented Elio's for years, has recently grown tired of the noisy room, the haphazard service, and the crush of patrons waiting at the bar. I know how much she loves her red-sauce Italian, so I set about finding a replacement.
Centolire, also on the Upper East Side, is a perfect alternative. The restaurant, so large that it previously housed an elementary school, offers plenty of room in which to breathe. We've been several times now, and we love the magical upstairs dining room.
We knew we were in for a treat when we first stepped off of the elevator onto the second floor. In the center of the golden-lit room was a large wooden table on which sat a large wheel of Parmigiano Reggiano, a prosciutto-slicer, a cutting board with slices of Italian salami, and a bowl of fresh cantaloupe. The well-appointed table and the cozy corner bar made us feel like we were in the dining room of a beloved friend.
The service was as welcoming as the atmosphere. Our gracious waiter brought by a complementary bowl of olive-oil drizzled peppered ricotta and a basket of focaccia. While we munched and deliberated over the menu, the table next to us enjoyed tableside preparations of truffled fettucini carbonara and Caesar salad.
Our chosen indulgences were the special three-bean greens soup, a wondrously garlicky clams in white wine sauce appetizer, breaded veal milanese (as big as a pizza) accompanied by sweet roasted baby Brussels sprouts, and a slightly browned pan-seared meaty organic striped bass. There was a slight delay with my entree, so the lovely manager, Gianfranco, threw in a free dessert: a thick slice of pound cake covered with creamy mascarpone mousse and a tumble of fresh strawberries! (We also loved the tiramisu. For those with foresight, a chocolate-mocha souffle is available if you order it at the beginning of the meal.) Not surprisingly, I am now a loyal patron.
Centolire: 1167 Madison Ave., (212) 734-7711.
Centolire, also on the Upper East Side, is a perfect alternative. The restaurant, so large that it previously housed an elementary school, offers plenty of room in which to breathe. We've been several times now, and we love the magical upstairs dining room.
We knew we were in for a treat when we first stepped off of the elevator onto the second floor. In the center of the golden-lit room was a large wooden table on which sat a large wheel of Parmigiano Reggiano, a prosciutto-slicer, a cutting board with slices of Italian salami, and a bowl of fresh cantaloupe. The well-appointed table and the cozy corner bar made us feel like we were in the dining room of a beloved friend.
The service was as welcoming as the atmosphere. Our gracious waiter brought by a complementary bowl of olive-oil drizzled peppered ricotta and a basket of focaccia. While we munched and deliberated over the menu, the table next to us enjoyed tableside preparations of truffled fettucini carbonara and Caesar salad.
Our chosen indulgences were the special three-bean greens soup, a wondrously garlicky clams in white wine sauce appetizer, breaded veal milanese (as big as a pizza) accompanied by sweet roasted baby Brussels sprouts, and a slightly browned pan-seared meaty organic striped bass. There was a slight delay with my entree, so the lovely manager, Gianfranco, threw in a free dessert: a thick slice of pound cake covered with creamy mascarpone mousse and a tumble of fresh strawberries! (We also loved the tiramisu. For those with foresight, a chocolate-mocha souffle is available if you order it at the beginning of the meal.) Not surprisingly, I am now a loyal patron.
Centolire: 1167 Madison Ave., (212) 734-7711.
Thursday, January 13, 2005
Sympathy For The Kettle
Every so often, there's a newspaper article touting the health benefits of tea. Although I've yet to see a similar article about the benefits of truffles and pound cake, I quite enjoy the tea-flavored treats at Sympathy For The Kettle.
The funky East Village tearoom doesn't have much space in which to sit down, but it's chock-full of goodies like vanilla rooibos rose buttercream cake, lavender bars, rose truffles, orange apricot rooibos bread and bergamot-flecked, citrusy Earl Grey-iced pound cake. And if you want to bake your own goodies, there are over a hundred varieties of loose tea you can take home to experiment with!
Sympathy For The Kettle: 109 St. Marks Place, (212) 979-1650.
The funky East Village tearoom doesn't have much space in which to sit down, but it's chock-full of goodies like vanilla rooibos rose buttercream cake, lavender bars, rose truffles, orange apricot rooibos bread and bergamot-flecked, citrusy Earl Grey-iced pound cake. And if you want to bake your own goodies, there are over a hundred varieties of loose tea you can take home to experiment with!
Sympathy For The Kettle: 109 St. Marks Place, (212) 979-1650.
Wednesday, January 12, 2005
Lombardi's Original Pizza
Lespinasse and La Caravelle are long gone, but the coal-fired oven at Lombardi's Original Pizza keeps on chugging. I'm ashamed to admit that until last night, I hadn't yet visited this venerable pizzeria, which is the oldest in the United States. (The famous oven proudly sports the year "1905" in blue tile. Nostalgics will appreciate the old-time atmosphere and memorabilia; one could say that Lombardi's is a "slice" of old New York.)
Recently, Lombardi's underwent a renovation and expansion that will better accommodate its hordes of diners. Last night, my friends and I were soon seated at a round table in the newer front room.
I was immediately impressed with the toppings menu, which was more extensive than that of my local favorite, Nick's Pizza. The oven-roasted red peppers appealed to me, and the white pizza with clams sounded intriguing. We ordered the clam pizza and a traditional tomato pie, half pepperoni and half peppers.
The clam pizza was pleasantly garlicky, topped with breadcrumbs, Parmesan and a veritable avalanche of clams. Actually, I think that the amount of clams detracted from the pizza, and some of them were rubbery and overly chewy.
I then turned my attention to the more traditional pizza. In order to enthrall me, a red pizza must pass three tests: the sauce must not be too sweet, there should be a generous layer of fresh mozzarella, and, most important: the crust should be tasty enough to eat by itself.
The sauce definitely passed muster; the San Marzano tomatoes made it vibrantly flavorful. I also enjoyed the sweet red peppers. However, the cheese was missing some of the fresh, milky quality that I find at Nick's and Franny's. (Nick's Pizza has fresh mozzarella prepared especially for them every other day, and Franny's uses the unimpeachable Lioni's.) And when I looked at my companion's plate, large pieces of charred crust remained on it. (Some people gripe about the slightly charred crust at Nick's, but at Lombardi's, the charring was decidedly more pronounced.)
Still, the piping hot pizza was definitely enjoyable; I'd return just to try all the other toppings!
Lombardi's Original Pizza: 32 Spring St., (212) 941-7994.
Recently, Lombardi's underwent a renovation and expansion that will better accommodate its hordes of diners. Last night, my friends and I were soon seated at a round table in the newer front room.
I was immediately impressed with the toppings menu, which was more extensive than that of my local favorite, Nick's Pizza. The oven-roasted red peppers appealed to me, and the white pizza with clams sounded intriguing. We ordered the clam pizza and a traditional tomato pie, half pepperoni and half peppers.
The clam pizza was pleasantly garlicky, topped with breadcrumbs, Parmesan and a veritable avalanche of clams. Actually, I think that the amount of clams detracted from the pizza, and some of them were rubbery and overly chewy.
I then turned my attention to the more traditional pizza. In order to enthrall me, a red pizza must pass three tests: the sauce must not be too sweet, there should be a generous layer of fresh mozzarella, and, most important: the crust should be tasty enough to eat by itself.
The sauce definitely passed muster; the San Marzano tomatoes made it vibrantly flavorful. I also enjoyed the sweet red peppers. However, the cheese was missing some of the fresh, milky quality that I find at Nick's and Franny's. (Nick's Pizza has fresh mozzarella prepared especially for them every other day, and Franny's uses the unimpeachable Lioni's.) And when I looked at my companion's plate, large pieces of charred crust remained on it. (Some people gripe about the slightly charred crust at Nick's, but at Lombardi's, the charring was decidedly more pronounced.)
Still, the piping hot pizza was definitely enjoyable; I'd return just to try all the other toppings!
Lombardi's Original Pizza: 32 Spring St., (212) 941-7994.
Sunday, January 02, 2005
Sweets News
The cream puff craze has spread to the Upper East Side! Just five days ago, the Choux Factory opened up on 1st Avenue and 87th Street. Besides serving cream puffs filled with rich vanilla, strawberry and chocolate custards, the Choux Factory offers terrific Kona coffee.
Choux Factory: 1685 1st Ave., (212) 289-2023.
Choux Factory: 1685 1st Ave., (212) 289-2023.
Friday, December 31, 2004
'Tis The Season For Ravioli
Still haven't decided what to serve the guests tonight at your New Year's Eve bash? Well, you have about 30 minutes to run over to The Ravioli Store in SoHo. Their seasonal raviolis (Yukon potato truffle in chive pasta, butternut squash and sweet potato in sweet potato pasta, and duck confit in egg pasta) are sure to be the life of the party.
The Ravioli Store: 75 Sullivan St., (212) 925-1737. Open till 5 p.m. today unless there is a great rush of customers, in which case they plan to stay open later.
The Ravioli Store: 75 Sullivan St., (212) 925-1737. Open till 5 p.m. today unless there is a great rush of customers, in which case they plan to stay open later.
Thursday, December 30, 2004
EN Japanese Brasserie
TriBeCa is becoming the mecca for innovative Japanese cuisine, first with Nobu, now Megu and EN Japanese Brasserie. My companion and I had wanted to dine at EN ever since reading about their housemade tofu, produced on a movie-like schedule every night (6, 7:30, 9, 10:30 and 11:30 p.m.).
We were led to a communal table around a sand garden lit with votives. (There are also private rooms, a sushi bar, large tables and a separate bar and lounge area.) After bathing our hands in hot towels, we proceeded to be completely overwhelmed by the menu, which was divided into: tofu/yuba appetizers, small cold plates, small hot plates, large grill and kitchen plates, rice and noodles, and sushi/sashimi. The drink selection was equally overwhelming, including alcoholic beverages made from barley, sweet potato, sugar cane, buckwheat and rice in addition to wine and sake. (We settled on the non-alcoholic barley tea, Japanese peach juice and aloe juice.)
There were so many intriguing-sounding dishes... garlic shiso fried rice, miso-grilled black cod... that we gave up on trying to decide between them and ordered the 7-course omakase for two. The waiter informed us that although each course would be chosen especially by the chef, any dishes that we were particularly attached to could be included. I knew we would want the seared belly of tuna, but that was the only decision I made.
Our first course was a trio of cold appetizers: gelatinous green konnyaku in a bracing miso vinaigrette, creamy fresh tofu custard which we splashed with ginger soy sauce, and thin slices of Kyoto-style yuba "sashimi". The yuba, which is the byproduct of making soymilk, had the chewy consistency of part-skim mozzarella and a mild milk taste.
After this refreshing course, we were served a bowl of mugwort wheat gnocchi in a daikon radish and ginger broth. Then, we received what was perhaps the highlight of my night: the chu-toro course! Five seared slabs of fatty belly tuna were hot pink rainbows of pure pleasure. Slightly charred on the outside, on the inside they were meaty and meltingly tender.
The next item on the agenda was oyster teriyaki: a plump oyster, chosen for its extra-large liver, sat atop a dense potato-like daikon cylinder.
By this time we were already full, but there were still three courses left! The two courses before dessert were a grill-your-own Wagyu beef and a sushi course. It was fun to grill the tender pieces of marbled Wagyu on a hot stone for 5 seconds on each side, and the accompanying matsutake mushrooms (apparently prized as an aphrodisiac!) were unique and flavorful.
The sushi course, which arrived with a bowl of crab miso soup, was a meal in itself. There were five pieces of sushi, including creamy, sweet sea urchin, fresh-water eel, tuna, snapper and yellowtail, and a few pieces of cucumber eel maki. Each piece of fish was sparklingly fresh.
Finally, it was time for the generous dessert: soba tea pudding. The rich milk custard was faintly nutty with the taste of buckwheat. On another occasion, I might have enjoyed something more elaborate such as wagashi (multi-colored Japanese pastries), but this epic meal was best ended with simplicity.
EN Japanese Brasserie: 435 Hudson St., (212) 647-9196.
We were led to a communal table around a sand garden lit with votives. (There are also private rooms, a sushi bar, large tables and a separate bar and lounge area.) After bathing our hands in hot towels, we proceeded to be completely overwhelmed by the menu, which was divided into: tofu/yuba appetizers, small cold plates, small hot plates, large grill and kitchen plates, rice and noodles, and sushi/sashimi. The drink selection was equally overwhelming, including alcoholic beverages made from barley, sweet potato, sugar cane, buckwheat and rice in addition to wine and sake. (We settled on the non-alcoholic barley tea, Japanese peach juice and aloe juice.)
There were so many intriguing-sounding dishes... garlic shiso fried rice, miso-grilled black cod... that we gave up on trying to decide between them and ordered the 7-course omakase for two. The waiter informed us that although each course would be chosen especially by the chef, any dishes that we were particularly attached to could be included. I knew we would want the seared belly of tuna, but that was the only decision I made.
Our first course was a trio of cold appetizers: gelatinous green konnyaku in a bracing miso vinaigrette, creamy fresh tofu custard which we splashed with ginger soy sauce, and thin slices of Kyoto-style yuba "sashimi". The yuba, which is the byproduct of making soymilk, had the chewy consistency of part-skim mozzarella and a mild milk taste.
After this refreshing course, we were served a bowl of mugwort wheat gnocchi in a daikon radish and ginger broth. Then, we received what was perhaps the highlight of my night: the chu-toro course! Five seared slabs of fatty belly tuna were hot pink rainbows of pure pleasure. Slightly charred on the outside, on the inside they were meaty and meltingly tender.
The next item on the agenda was oyster teriyaki: a plump oyster, chosen for its extra-large liver, sat atop a dense potato-like daikon cylinder.
By this time we were already full, but there were still three courses left! The two courses before dessert were a grill-your-own Wagyu beef and a sushi course. It was fun to grill the tender pieces of marbled Wagyu on a hot stone for 5 seconds on each side, and the accompanying matsutake mushrooms (apparently prized as an aphrodisiac!) were unique and flavorful.
The sushi course, which arrived with a bowl of crab miso soup, was a meal in itself. There were five pieces of sushi, including creamy, sweet sea urchin, fresh-water eel, tuna, snapper and yellowtail, and a few pieces of cucumber eel maki. Each piece of fish was sparklingly fresh.
Finally, it was time for the generous dessert: soba tea pudding. The rich milk custard was faintly nutty with the taste of buckwheat. On another occasion, I might have enjoyed something more elaborate such as wagashi (multi-colored Japanese pastries), but this epic meal was best ended with simplicity.
EN Japanese Brasserie: 435 Hudson St., (212) 647-9196.
Wednesday, December 29, 2004
Battle of the Brunches (Part 2): Arepas
Note: It's been quite a while since I conducted an informal battle of the brunches. I hope to do this with increasing frequency.
I'm a big fan of anything made with cornmeal: polenta, tortillas, cornbread, grits, pupusas, and, of course, the delightful Venezuelan arepa. This white cornmeal cake is not only a sturdy pocket for various fillings such as cheese or roast meat, but it's also tasty with just a pat of butter. This week, I compared the arepa breakfasts at two Venezuelan cafes in the East Village: Flor's Kitchen and Caracas Arepa Bar.
At Caracas Arepa Bar, I ordered the Desayuno Criollo ($9.95) and received a large plate of huevos pericos, or eggs scrambled with peppers, onions and tomatoes, a healthy portion of black beans (shredded beef is also an option), a small salad with tomatoes and hearts of palm, a tropical juice (I chose guava) and a plain arepa. The scrambled eggs were fluffy and the guava juice was thick and sweet. However, the arepa was a disappointment: small and hard, it was rather more like a biscuit.
I had the exact opposite experience at Flor's Kitchen (which recently opened up a new location in the West Village due to its extreme popularity - NOTE: 1st Ave. location closed in 2007). I again ordered the huevos pericos ($6.50, with fried plantains instead of beans and salad) and a guava juice. The juice was iced and tart instead of sweet, and the scrambled eggs were unappealingly watery. But the arepa: what a revelation! Moist, light, buttery and piping hot, it was everything the ideal cornmeal cake should be. In the future, I guess I'll just have to make an afternoon of my arepas and brunch at both restaurants on the same day.
Caracas Arepa Bar: 91 East 7th St., (212) 228-5062. Flor's Kitchen: 149 1st Ave., (212) 387-8949.
I'm a big fan of anything made with cornmeal: polenta, tortillas, cornbread, grits, pupusas, and, of course, the delightful Venezuelan arepa. This white cornmeal cake is not only a sturdy pocket for various fillings such as cheese or roast meat, but it's also tasty with just a pat of butter. This week, I compared the arepa breakfasts at two Venezuelan cafes in the East Village: Flor's Kitchen and Caracas Arepa Bar.
At Caracas Arepa Bar, I ordered the Desayuno Criollo ($9.95) and received a large plate of huevos pericos, or eggs scrambled with peppers, onions and tomatoes, a healthy portion of black beans (shredded beef is also an option), a small salad with tomatoes and hearts of palm, a tropical juice (I chose guava) and a plain arepa. The scrambled eggs were fluffy and the guava juice was thick and sweet. However, the arepa was a disappointment: small and hard, it was rather more like a biscuit.
I had the exact opposite experience at Flor's Kitchen (which recently opened up a new location in the West Village due to its extreme popularity - NOTE: 1st Ave. location closed in 2007). I again ordered the huevos pericos ($6.50, with fried plantains instead of beans and salad) and a guava juice. The juice was iced and tart instead of sweet, and the scrambled eggs were unappealingly watery. But the arepa: what a revelation! Moist, light, buttery and piping hot, it was everything the ideal cornmeal cake should be. In the future, I guess I'll just have to make an afternoon of my arepas and brunch at both restaurants on the same day.
Caracas Arepa Bar: 91 East 7th St., (212) 228-5062. Flor's Kitchen: 149 1st Ave., (212) 387-8949.
Wednesday, December 22, 2004
Podunk
On my way to check out Jewel Bako Robatayaki (which, contrary to media reports, has not yet opened), I became aware of the charming existence of Podunk, a tiny tea room that would fit right into a small New England town.
Along with a homey atmosphere, Podunk offers an impressive, ever-changing assortment of home-baked goods. There are both sweet and savory scones (today: cranberry, strawberry, spinach feta and Andouille sausage), tarts, herbed foccaccias, and brownies with that sticky, caramel chewiness that results from a generous hand with the butter. (I was also very taken with the flaky, buttery scones.)
Podunk: 231 East 5th St., (212) 677-7722.
Along with a homey atmosphere, Podunk offers an impressive, ever-changing assortment of home-baked goods. There are both sweet and savory scones (today: cranberry, strawberry, spinach feta and Andouille sausage), tarts, herbed foccaccias, and brownies with that sticky, caramel chewiness that results from a generous hand with the butter. (I was also very taken with the flaky, buttery scones.)
Podunk: 231 East 5th St., (212) 677-7722.
Monday, December 20, 2004
The Perfect Coffeemaker For New Yorkers
If you're like most New Yorkers, you have no time and even less kitchen space. You needed a cup of strong coffee this morning, but in your haste to get home last night, you forgot to buy filters for the machine.
I had solved my filter dilemma by making coffee with the filterless Saeco Vienna Deluxe. Every morning, I would fill the machine with Sumatran coffee beans and watch the grinding and tamping with admiration. However, the Deluxe was quite messy to clean, as I had to open it up, withdraw several different compartments, and scrub off layers of coffee grounds. The machine also claimed a lot of precious counter space.
Enter the amazing Nespresso coffeemaker. Tiny in comparison to my Saeco Deluxe, it uses capsules of ground coffee to produce astonishingly good coffee. You can make a large or small cup, and there are 10 different strengths available. I was very skeptical at first; how could a capsule compare to freshly ground beans? But my Arpeggio coffee was smooth, rich and topped with a fine layer of crema.
Best of all, the machine requires almost no cleaning; you just empty the capsule compartment!
I had solved my filter dilemma by making coffee with the filterless Saeco Vienna Deluxe. Every morning, I would fill the machine with Sumatran coffee beans and watch the grinding and tamping with admiration. However, the Deluxe was quite messy to clean, as I had to open it up, withdraw several different compartments, and scrub off layers of coffee grounds. The machine also claimed a lot of precious counter space.
Enter the amazing Nespresso coffeemaker. Tiny in comparison to my Saeco Deluxe, it uses capsules of ground coffee to produce astonishingly good coffee. You can make a large or small cup, and there are 10 different strengths available. I was very skeptical at first; how could a capsule compare to freshly ground beans? But my Arpeggio coffee was smooth, rich and topped with a fine layer of crema.
Best of all, the machine requires almost no cleaning; you just empty the capsule compartment!
Hearth
I'd been dying to visit Hearth ever since I saw that the restaurant had won a Best Desserts of 2004 award. After weeks of trying, I was finally able to secure a reservation for my birthday!
The weather was especially frigid last night, and Hearth's spiced masala chocolate, buttered rum, greenmarket cider, and mulled wine sounded like the perfect antidote. However, unbeknownst to me, my mother (who lives in Florida) had called the restaurant beforehand and ordered us a bottle of champagne. (I don't know how she got the number, because I don't even remember telling her where we were going!)
This warm gesture set the mood for a lovely evening. Our waitress brought by the amuse-bouche, a small glass of creamy parsnip soup. After a salad of baby lettuce and beets in a shallot-red wine vinaigrette, we anxiously awaited the red snapper crudo appetizer. What a luxurious dish it was! The paper-thin slices of pristine pink fish were accented with fried rosemary leaves, grains of sea salt and preserved lemon. Each slice of snapper was served atop a small mound of minced fish to mimic a sushi preparation.
The gnocchi were divine. I instantly forgot all of those regrettable potato gumdrops I'd consumed in the past. These were light as air and melted in my mouth in a puff of butter, pepper and Parmesan.
We then indulged in the roasted striped bass in black truffle vinaigrette on a parsley root puree, which was served with sweet-as-honey parsnips, Brussels sprouts, and cauliflower, and a plate of roasted dry-aged sirloin and braised shortribs au jus with mustard greens, turnips, and baby beets. By now we were quite full, but no birthday dinner should lack dessert! So, we ordered the tangy goat-milk panna cotta and the moist olive oil cake, which came with a scoop of burnt-sugar ice cream and spiced roasted pears. A bit of sea salt brought out the sweetness in the cake. (Charmingly, the pastry chef had iced "Happy Birthday" on the edges of the plate.)
We finished with some Guatemala Antigua rich coffee, but there was yet one more surprise. The waitress, instead of bringing over the bill, informed us that my mother had decided to pick up the check. (Thanks, Mom!)
Hearth: 403 East 12th St., (646) 602-1300.
The weather was especially frigid last night, and Hearth's spiced masala chocolate, buttered rum, greenmarket cider, and mulled wine sounded like the perfect antidote. However, unbeknownst to me, my mother (who lives in Florida) had called the restaurant beforehand and ordered us a bottle of champagne. (I don't know how she got the number, because I don't even remember telling her where we were going!)
This warm gesture set the mood for a lovely evening. Our waitress brought by the amuse-bouche, a small glass of creamy parsnip soup. After a salad of baby lettuce and beets in a shallot-red wine vinaigrette, we anxiously awaited the red snapper crudo appetizer. What a luxurious dish it was! The paper-thin slices of pristine pink fish were accented with fried rosemary leaves, grains of sea salt and preserved lemon. Each slice of snapper was served atop a small mound of minced fish to mimic a sushi preparation.
The gnocchi were divine. I instantly forgot all of those regrettable potato gumdrops I'd consumed in the past. These were light as air and melted in my mouth in a puff of butter, pepper and Parmesan.
We then indulged in the roasted striped bass in black truffle vinaigrette on a parsley root puree, which was served with sweet-as-honey parsnips, Brussels sprouts, and cauliflower, and a plate of roasted dry-aged sirloin and braised shortribs au jus with mustard greens, turnips, and baby beets. By now we were quite full, but no birthday dinner should lack dessert! So, we ordered the tangy goat-milk panna cotta and the moist olive oil cake, which came with a scoop of burnt-sugar ice cream and spiced roasted pears. A bit of sea salt brought out the sweetness in the cake. (Charmingly, the pastry chef had iced "Happy Birthday" on the edges of the plate.)
We finished with some Guatemala Antigua rich coffee, but there was yet one more surprise. The waitress, instead of bringing over the bill, informed us that my mother had decided to pick up the check. (Thanks, Mom!)
Hearth: 403 East 12th St., (646) 602-1300.
Friday, December 17, 2004
Nice Matin
Open since April 2003, Nice Matin has lost none of its buzz; the restaurant was absolutely packed last night. And after just one bite of the fava bean tortelloni, I could see why. Our food was so appealing that even the picky eater among us forgot to be picky.
I chose Nice Matin because I was charmed to see a "Five-Napkin Burger" on the otherwise Provencal menu. This would be just the thing for our beloved picky eater, while I could order the grilled sea bass with olive-oil stewed artichokes.
The menu listed both hors d'oeuvres, like sardines and panisses, and larger appetizers. I knew that everyone would enjoy the panisses (chick-pea fritters cut in French-fry-like rectangles and served with garlic mayonnaise), but I had no idea how fast they would disappear! People who had never seen a garbanzo bean inhaled them, and soon it was time to order seconds.
The experience was repeated with the tortelloni. The plump pouches of noodle, each stuffed with a bit of green fava, were generously buttered and soon devoured. (This time, the picky eater ordered another round.) We also enjoyed a white bean and bacon soup, and a refreshing frisee, pear, orange and almond salad.
By now, I was half-stuffed, but it was time for our crowd-pleasing entrees: the aforementioned burger (sans Comte cheese), the classic steak frites (a giant piece of meat), and my delectable grilled sea bass, which was served on a bed of rich pureed potatoes and surrounded by olive oil-bathed artichokes.
No sooner had I finished the last bite that the dessert menu arrived. There were several flavors of homemade ice creams and sorbets, such as cinnamon and green apple. But I had my heart set on a more substantial dessert and mustered up my little remaining appetite to enjoy the gingerbread trifle and mascarpone mousse. It arrived in a lovely little parfait glass, which was soon emptied by... the picky eater.
Nice Matin: 201 West 79th St., (212) 873-6423.
I chose Nice Matin because I was charmed to see a "Five-Napkin Burger" on the otherwise Provencal menu. This would be just the thing for our beloved picky eater, while I could order the grilled sea bass with olive-oil stewed artichokes.
The menu listed both hors d'oeuvres, like sardines and panisses, and larger appetizers. I knew that everyone would enjoy the panisses (chick-pea fritters cut in French-fry-like rectangles and served with garlic mayonnaise), but I had no idea how fast they would disappear! People who had never seen a garbanzo bean inhaled them, and soon it was time to order seconds.
The experience was repeated with the tortelloni. The plump pouches of noodle, each stuffed with a bit of green fava, were generously buttered and soon devoured. (This time, the picky eater ordered another round.) We also enjoyed a white bean and bacon soup, and a refreshing frisee, pear, orange and almond salad.
By now, I was half-stuffed, but it was time for our crowd-pleasing entrees: the aforementioned burger (sans Comte cheese), the classic steak frites (a giant piece of meat), and my delectable grilled sea bass, which was served on a bed of rich pureed potatoes and surrounded by olive oil-bathed artichokes.
No sooner had I finished the last bite that the dessert menu arrived. There were several flavors of homemade ice creams and sorbets, such as cinnamon and green apple. But I had my heart set on a more substantial dessert and mustered up my little remaining appetite to enjoy the gingerbread trifle and mascarpone mousse. It arrived in a lovely little parfait glass, which was soon emptied by... the picky eater.
Nice Matin: 201 West 79th St., (212) 873-6423.
Tuesday, December 07, 2004
Sweets News
NYC is a city of every imaginable dessert, from chocolates to cream puffs to brownies. Up until now, however, our city hasn't been known for its beignets. That could change with the opening of The Bourgeois Pig, a cozy New Orleans-style cafe which specializes in the sugar-dusted fritters. Order a plain or a chocolate-filled beignet with a mug of strong coffee, and you'll be instantly transported to the French Quarter without even having to leave Manhattan.
The Bourgeois Pig: 122 East 7th St., (212) 475-2246.
The Bourgeois Pig: 122 East 7th St., (212) 475-2246.
Monday, December 06, 2004
Kitchen Arts & Letters
If you were thinking of (gasp) cooking for the holidays, you'll find plenty of inspiration at the only NYC bookstore completely devoted to the subject of food: Kitchen Arts & Letters. KAL offers an extraordinary variety of cookbooks, but for those of us more inclined to dine out, there's also a great selection of NYC food guides such as New York’s 50+ Best Places to Enjoy Dessert. (You'll find this particular gem right by the cash register.)
Kitchen Arts & Letters: 1435 Lexington Ave., (212) 876-5550.
Kitchen Arts & Letters: 1435 Lexington Ave., (212) 876-5550.
Wednesday, December 01, 2004
Pure Food And Wine
Feeling rather sheepish about my Thanksgiving overindulgence, I opted for a healthier meal last night. I invited two friends to Pure Food And Wine, the 8-month-old raw-foods restaurant in Gramercy Park. (It's also the city's only raw-foods restaurant that serves saketinis.)
Our meal ended up being surprisingly hearty, much more so than in previous raw-foods experiences. Although the portions were not large, we were reasonably stuffed after two appetizers, three entrees and two desserts. We began with the cauliflower samosas, served on a square plate and drizzled with banana tamarind sauce, and the young coconut noodles interspersed with julienned radish and papaya in a spicy coriander peanut sauce. Coconut was to feature prominently in the evening's dishes, forming the samosa pockets and providing richness in the desserts.
The entrees were as follows: a zucchini tomato lasagna with pine nut cheese and fresh basil pesto (the tomatoes were summer-ripe), beet ravioli stuffed with a surprisingly ricotta-like cashew cheese (my favorite entrée), and three corn tortillas filled with chunky guacamole and tomato-lime salsa. Although I am not accustomed to food served below 118 degrees, the intense flavors and garden-fresh ingredients made the meal a satisfying one.
Dessert was perhaps the highlight of the evening. The pumpkin pie (a misnomer, as the filling is made from carrots) was a delicious tart on a nut crust with a scoop of ginger ice cream, and dark chocolate ganache cake was surely the richest item on the menu. I wondered how the chef was able to so closely approximate the dense consistency of a flourless chocolate cake; the waiter informed us that the cake contained only cocoa, maple syrup and coconut oil. So much for my ascetic meal!
Pure Food And Wine: 54 Irving Place, (212) 477-1010.
Our meal ended up being surprisingly hearty, much more so than in previous raw-foods experiences. Although the portions were not large, we were reasonably stuffed after two appetizers, three entrees and two desserts. We began with the cauliflower samosas, served on a square plate and drizzled with banana tamarind sauce, and the young coconut noodles interspersed with julienned radish and papaya in a spicy coriander peanut sauce. Coconut was to feature prominently in the evening's dishes, forming the samosa pockets and providing richness in the desserts.
The entrees were as follows: a zucchini tomato lasagna with pine nut cheese and fresh basil pesto (the tomatoes were summer-ripe), beet ravioli stuffed with a surprisingly ricotta-like cashew cheese (my favorite entrée), and three corn tortillas filled with chunky guacamole and tomato-lime salsa. Although I am not accustomed to food served below 118 degrees, the intense flavors and garden-fresh ingredients made the meal a satisfying one.
Dessert was perhaps the highlight of the evening. The pumpkin pie (a misnomer, as the filling is made from carrots) was a delicious tart on a nut crust with a scoop of ginger ice cream, and dark chocolate ganache cake was surely the richest item on the menu. I wondered how the chef was able to so closely approximate the dense consistency of a flourless chocolate cake; the waiter informed us that the cake contained only cocoa, maple syrup and coconut oil. So much for my ascetic meal!
Pure Food And Wine: 54 Irving Place, (212) 477-1010.
Wednesday, November 24, 2004
Have A Tasty Thanksgiving!
If you don't plan to cook your own feast, there are still many available restaurants at which you can celebrate!
Wednesday, November 17, 2004
Sweets News
Can you eat over two pounds of chocolate in one sitting? If so, the 2.2 lb. "Big Daddy" chocolate bar at the new Jacques Torres Chocolate Haven is just what you're looking for! It also makes a terrific gift for your favorite chocolate lover.
And as of tomorrow, the Haven's chocolate factory will be in full operation. You'll witness the wondrous process of chocolate creation from start to finish!
Jacques Torres Chocolate Haven: 350 Hudson St., (718) 875-9772.
And as of tomorrow, the Haven's chocolate factory will be in full operation. You'll witness the wondrous process of chocolate creation from start to finish!
Jacques Torres Chocolate Haven: 350 Hudson St., (718) 875-9772.
Thursday, November 04, 2004
Franny's
Since I have the luxury of living near Nick's Pizza, I rarely go searching for other pizzerias. Last night, however, I had such a spectacular pizza experience in Brooklyn that I will be regularly commuting there.
Franny's, a gourmet pizzeria so proud of its ingredients that it lists their origins on the back of the menu, has set a whole new standard for NYC pizza. Garlic salami, fennel sausage and guanciale are house-made and all produce is organically grown.
Last night, my companion and I started off with some Montepulciano d'Abruzzo and a couple appetizers: crumbled egg and bottarga crostini and roasted beet salad. Although the crostini were tasty and the roasted beets were sweet (if overpowered by a bit too much pistachio salsa), we soon realized that our appetite would have been better spent on the utterly dreamy pizza. Hearing the waiter's footsteps, we looked up expectantly and were met by a free-form beauty of a pizza, randomly charred, spattered with fresh melted mozzarella, and sprinkled with thinly-sliced cloves of garlic and whole black olives. And what a crust... crispy, moist and light at the same time!
I longed to try the four-cheese pizza (mozzarella, ricotta, Gorgonzola & Fontina), but my companion had no room. So I consoled myself with a vanilla bean-speckled panna cotta accented with tangy, syrupy saba (an Italian grape-juice beverage).
But it's that pizza I'll be thinking about all week.
Franny's: 295 Flatbush Ave., Brooklyn, (718) 230-0221. Closed Mondays and the last Tuesday of every month.
Franny's, a gourmet pizzeria so proud of its ingredients that it lists their origins on the back of the menu, has set a whole new standard for NYC pizza. Garlic salami, fennel sausage and guanciale are house-made and all produce is organically grown.
Last night, my companion and I started off with some Montepulciano d'Abruzzo and a couple appetizers: crumbled egg and bottarga crostini and roasted beet salad. Although the crostini were tasty and the roasted beets were sweet (if overpowered by a bit too much pistachio salsa), we soon realized that our appetite would have been better spent on the utterly dreamy pizza. Hearing the waiter's footsteps, we looked up expectantly and were met by a free-form beauty of a pizza, randomly charred, spattered with fresh melted mozzarella, and sprinkled with thinly-sliced cloves of garlic and whole black olives. And what a crust... crispy, moist and light at the same time!
I longed to try the four-cheese pizza (mozzarella, ricotta, Gorgonzola & Fontina), but my companion had no room. So I consoled myself with a vanilla bean-speckled panna cotta accented with tangy, syrupy saba (an Italian grape-juice beverage).
But it's that pizza I'll be thinking about all week.
Franny's: 295 Flatbush Ave., Brooklyn, (718) 230-0221. Closed Mondays and the last Tuesday of every month.
Tuesday, November 02, 2004
Invitation to a Wine Tasting
Celebrate the end of the workweek with a free Italian wine tasting! This Friday evening, the Chelsea Wine Vault will offer great Italian wines, cheese and bread. To sign up, please send an E-mail to info@shopwineanddineitaly.com.
Chelsea Wine Vault: 75 9th Ave., (212) 462-4244. The tasting will be held from 4-7 p.m. this Friday, Nov. 5.
Chelsea Wine Vault: 75 9th Ave., (212) 462-4244. The tasting will be held from 4-7 p.m. this Friday, Nov. 5.
Wednesday, October 27, 2004
Applewood
What an amazing transformation the space at 501 11th Street has undergone! Formerly a struggling open-mike bar showcasing dangerously off-key singers, it is now a charming restaurant that manages to be both sophisticated and cozy at the same time. Just a bit off of Park Slope's 7th Avenue, Applewood embodies all of brownstone Brooklyn's charm while providing a wonderful dining experience.
Various pumpkins decorate the entrance and a real fireplace warms up the room. As you enter, you will see wooden shelves featuring jars of homemade spicy peach jam and tomato basil sauce ($5 each). (You will probably also see the affable owners holding their 10-day-old infant. So adorable is this baby that you might be distracted from the menu. But don't worry, the promise of ricotta dumplings with braised pork shoulder will soon reclaim your attention.)
My friend and I began our meal with reasonably-priced Dom Martinho red wine and sliced baguettes with three spreads: roasted garlic puree, French butter and delectable fig jam. We lingered over the bread and wine for a little while because the menu listed so many attractive options. I had a craving for root vegetables and initially wanted the rutabaga soup, but then I saw the potato and root vegetable "pave" with black peppercorn-goat cheese fondue on the entrée list. My companion was rather disappointed to find that the signature duck in applewood-smoked bacon sauce was unavailable.
As you can imagine, we solved these dilemmas in the most delicious way possible. Our shared appetizer was a light, astringent ceviche spiced up with toasted coriander seeds and drizzled with chili oil and avocado mousse. Then, deprived of the duck, my companion opted for the "tenderest ever" grass-fed lamb on a bed of creamy polenta which was encircled with dollops of black olive sauce. I received my allotment of root vegetables in the "pave", which was a kind of sliced root vegetable napoleon. Dipping the potatoes and rutabagas into the tangy goat cheese fondue was a sumptuous experience.
As the temperature drops, it's time for comfort carbohydrates, and dessert at Applewood is a great opportunity to indulge in them! My friend's flourless chocolate cake was among the best I've ever tasted; served with a side of Earl Grey ice cream and topped with real whipped cream, the cake was more like a warm souffle. Each gooey mouthful was a tidal wave of chocolate flavor. I ended up eating half of the cake, even though I had ordered the spiced hot chocolate and homemade Oreos. Once you try this hot chocolate, you will never feel the same about mulled apple cider. You may just crave hot chocolate from now on! (My friend pronounced the beverage "Christmas in a cup.") The accompanying Oreos were small but deceptively rich with a buttercream filling.
Intriguing fennel meringues completed our meal, and then we reluctantly stepped out of the dream back onto the street.
Applewood: 501 11th St., Brooklyn. (718) 768-2044
Various pumpkins decorate the entrance and a real fireplace warms up the room. As you enter, you will see wooden shelves featuring jars of homemade spicy peach jam and tomato basil sauce ($5 each). (You will probably also see the affable owners holding their 10-day-old infant. So adorable is this baby that you might be distracted from the menu. But don't worry, the promise of ricotta dumplings with braised pork shoulder will soon reclaim your attention.)
My friend and I began our meal with reasonably-priced Dom Martinho red wine and sliced baguettes with three spreads: roasted garlic puree, French butter and delectable fig jam. We lingered over the bread and wine for a little while because the menu listed so many attractive options. I had a craving for root vegetables and initially wanted the rutabaga soup, but then I saw the potato and root vegetable "pave" with black peppercorn-goat cheese fondue on the entrée list. My companion was rather disappointed to find that the signature duck in applewood-smoked bacon sauce was unavailable.
As you can imagine, we solved these dilemmas in the most delicious way possible. Our shared appetizer was a light, astringent ceviche spiced up with toasted coriander seeds and drizzled with chili oil and avocado mousse. Then, deprived of the duck, my companion opted for the "tenderest ever" grass-fed lamb on a bed of creamy polenta which was encircled with dollops of black olive sauce. I received my allotment of root vegetables in the "pave", which was a kind of sliced root vegetable napoleon. Dipping the potatoes and rutabagas into the tangy goat cheese fondue was a sumptuous experience.
As the temperature drops, it's time for comfort carbohydrates, and dessert at Applewood is a great opportunity to indulge in them! My friend's flourless chocolate cake was among the best I've ever tasted; served with a side of Earl Grey ice cream and topped with real whipped cream, the cake was more like a warm souffle. Each gooey mouthful was a tidal wave of chocolate flavor. I ended up eating half of the cake, even though I had ordered the spiced hot chocolate and homemade Oreos. Once you try this hot chocolate, you will never feel the same about mulled apple cider. You may just crave hot chocolate from now on! (My friend pronounced the beverage "Christmas in a cup.") The accompanying Oreos were small but deceptively rich with a buttercream filling.
Intriguing fennel meringues completed our meal, and then we reluctantly stepped out of the dream back onto the street.
Applewood: 501 11th St., Brooklyn. (718) 768-2044
Friday, October 15, 2004
Zaitzeff
Hungry as can be, I took stock of the dreary dining options along Nassau Street. To my right, there was a Blimpie's, and further down, a Wendy's. Sighing, I turned to my left and saw… a small miracle: Zaitzeff.
Zaitzeff is a burger place that cares! It does the Burger Joint in Le Parker Meridien one better, and serves up patties of organic meatloaf, Kobe beef, and even tuna steak in addition to the regular sirloin. Each burger is lovingly set upon a Portuguese muffin and topped with ripe red tomatoes, horseradish cream, and (if you wish) hefty slices of avocado, grilled onions and cheese.
The sandwiches are quite substantial, but if you must eat further (as I do), there are mixed green salads and heaps of sweet potato and russet French fries. And, when by the cash register, don't overlook the plates piled high with housemade cookies, muffins and brownies. (Some of the brownies are cut larger than others; I left you the biggest one.)
One final tip: try to get to Zaitzeff before the lunch crush; as word spreads around the area, large companies are increasingly ordering 40 burgers at a time!
Zaitzeff: 72 Nassau St., (212) 571-7272.
Zaitzeff is a burger place that cares! It does the Burger Joint in Le Parker Meridien one better, and serves up patties of organic meatloaf, Kobe beef, and even tuna steak in addition to the regular sirloin. Each burger is lovingly set upon a Portuguese muffin and topped with ripe red tomatoes, horseradish cream, and (if you wish) hefty slices of avocado, grilled onions and cheese.
The sandwiches are quite substantial, but if you must eat further (as I do), there are mixed green salads and heaps of sweet potato and russet French fries. And, when by the cash register, don't overlook the plates piled high with housemade cookies, muffins and brownies. (Some of the brownies are cut larger than others; I left you the biggest one.)
One final tip: try to get to Zaitzeff before the lunch crush; as word spreads around the area, large companies are increasingly ordering 40 burgers at a time!
Zaitzeff: 72 Nassau St., (212) 571-7272.
Sunday, October 10, 2004
Kalustyan's Masala Café
If you're wandering around Curry Hill in search of some chana masala, you might be sidetracked by the orange lights of Kalustyan's Masala Café. Although you won't find your beloved North Indian favorites there, you will experience a magical meal of exotic spices and unusual flavors. (And you may have many questions for the waiters regarding the ingredients!)
Last night, my companion and I pounced upon the last table for two. Soon, we were tearing apart a puffy cheddar kulcha bread with gusto. We were quite hungry, as we'd been deliberating over where to eat for a little while. Our boldly flavored appetizers announced the chef's gutsy tastes: a bright pink tuna carpaccio, sprinkled with spicy edamame, was accented with anchovies, and thinly sliced Long Island duck was served with sweet poached figs.
Entrees showcased a pan-Asian flair; I noticed a congee on the menu as well as a Persian-influenced lobster preparation. My companion's monkfish entrée consisted of two generous hunks of cornmeal-crusted fish on a bed of bok choy. I myself enjoyed an entrée that I'm sure I will be returning to on cool fall nights: a hotpot of eggplant and caramelized onion on a bed of lemon rice, topped off with jicama slices and crunchy lentils. Cumin salt was a fragrant condiment.
Although I usually indulge in life-enhancing chocolate for dessert, I decided not to order the malted chocolate crème brulee in favor of the caramel kulfi in a spiced apple Cointreau soup. This dessert was perhaps my only regret of the evening, as the cone of ice milk was frozen solid and impossible to eat with a spoon. Next time, I will indulge in the creme brulee, or maybe venture over to the nearby Kalustyan's Market for 142 pastries, sweets and cookies.
Kalustyan's Masala Café: 115 Lexington Ave., (212) 686-5400.
Last night, my companion and I pounced upon the last table for two. Soon, we were tearing apart a puffy cheddar kulcha bread with gusto. We were quite hungry, as we'd been deliberating over where to eat for a little while. Our boldly flavored appetizers announced the chef's gutsy tastes: a bright pink tuna carpaccio, sprinkled with spicy edamame, was accented with anchovies, and thinly sliced Long Island duck was served with sweet poached figs.
Entrees showcased a pan-Asian flair; I noticed a congee on the menu as well as a Persian-influenced lobster preparation. My companion's monkfish entrée consisted of two generous hunks of cornmeal-crusted fish on a bed of bok choy. I myself enjoyed an entrée that I'm sure I will be returning to on cool fall nights: a hotpot of eggplant and caramelized onion on a bed of lemon rice, topped off with jicama slices and crunchy lentils. Cumin salt was a fragrant condiment.
Although I usually indulge in life-enhancing chocolate for dessert, I decided not to order the malted chocolate crème brulee in favor of the caramel kulfi in a spiced apple Cointreau soup. This dessert was perhaps my only regret of the evening, as the cone of ice milk was frozen solid and impossible to eat with a spoon. Next time, I will indulge in the creme brulee, or maybe venture over to the nearby Kalustyan's Market for 142 pastries, sweets and cookies.
Kalustyan's Masala Café: 115 Lexington Ave., (212) 686-5400.
Thursday, September 30, 2004
The $1,000 Eggplant Sandwich
Yes, you read that correctly. But this sandwich won't cost you $1,000; rather, it might make you $1,000 richer! How can this be, you ask?
Well, the folks at Chickpea Restaurant, a little falafel joint in the East Village, are so proud of their roasted eggplant sandwich that they're holding a contest to find the most appropriate name for it.
(And, in a touch of both generosity and marketing genius, Chickpea will allow you to enter the contest as many times as you desire!)
Chickpea Restaurant, 23 3rd Ave., (212) 254-9500. Send your entries to info@chickpearestaurant.com.
Well, the folks at Chickpea Restaurant, a little falafel joint in the East Village, are so proud of their roasted eggplant sandwich that they're holding a contest to find the most appropriate name for it.
(And, in a touch of both generosity and marketing genius, Chickpea will allow you to enter the contest as many times as you desire!)
Chickpea Restaurant, 23 3rd Ave., (212) 254-9500. Send your entries to info@chickpearestaurant.com.
Saturday, September 25, 2004
Stone Park Cafe
The "culinization" of Park Slope's 5th Avenue continues apace. What was once a dingy convenience store is now a sophisticated bistro, the Stone Park Cafe.
Lately, I've been feeling nostalgic for Park Slope (my old neighborhood), so I met a friend for dinner tonight at this wonderful brand new restaurant. It was only the cafe's second night of being open to the public, but the smooth service was that of a veteran restaurant.
My friend and I began with the rich, creamy baked polenta, which we dubbed the "macaroni and cheese" of polenta appetizers. It harbored little gems of roasted garlic cloves, mushrooms and tomatoes, and was topped with a bubbling, slightly browned, thick layer of Fontina. Good to the last spoonful!
Other appetizers on the menu included pan-seared bluefish cakes, a quesadilla, crab-stuffed shrimp, and spareribs. An octopus salad special, which was described as "between an appetizer and an entree", was decidedly in the small appetizer category. However, it was quite delicious: the tentacles of tender grilled octopus, served on heirloom tomato slices, were liberally spiced with black peppercorns and lightly dressed with lemon vinaigrette. I was still rather hungry after the salad, and wondered if I should have ordered the pan-seared halibut.
My friend reveled in her "Newport steak sandwich." The thick white bread was sufficiently sturdy for the very tender meat, which was draped with caramelized onions. Melted Vermont cheddar provided an extra tasty detail.
Among the desserts were a lemon cake with fresh berries and honeyed goat cheese, a chocolate brioche pudding with whiskey ice cream, and a peach-blueberry cobbler. We opted for the truly amazing double chocolate souffle. The souffle was cooked to order and was worth the wait. I cannot even describe how chocolatey it was; I can only tell you that it was made of dark chocolate with an 80% cocoa content!
Prices were very reasonable; the steak sandwich was $11 and our bottle of red wine was $19. I have high hopes for the restaurant's maintaining its winning formula of creative, high-quality food at Brooklyn prices.
Now I have yet another reason to visit my old neighborhood!
Stone Park Cafe: 324 5th Ave., Brooklyn, (718) 369-0082.
Lately, I've been feeling nostalgic for Park Slope (my old neighborhood), so I met a friend for dinner tonight at this wonderful brand new restaurant. It was only the cafe's second night of being open to the public, but the smooth service was that of a veteran restaurant.
My friend and I began with the rich, creamy baked polenta, which we dubbed the "macaroni and cheese" of polenta appetizers. It harbored little gems of roasted garlic cloves, mushrooms and tomatoes, and was topped with a bubbling, slightly browned, thick layer of Fontina. Good to the last spoonful!
Other appetizers on the menu included pan-seared bluefish cakes, a quesadilla, crab-stuffed shrimp, and spareribs. An octopus salad special, which was described as "between an appetizer and an entree", was decidedly in the small appetizer category. However, it was quite delicious: the tentacles of tender grilled octopus, served on heirloom tomato slices, were liberally spiced with black peppercorns and lightly dressed with lemon vinaigrette. I was still rather hungry after the salad, and wondered if I should have ordered the pan-seared halibut.
My friend reveled in her "Newport steak sandwich." The thick white bread was sufficiently sturdy for the very tender meat, which was draped with caramelized onions. Melted Vermont cheddar provided an extra tasty detail.
Among the desserts were a lemon cake with fresh berries and honeyed goat cheese, a chocolate brioche pudding with whiskey ice cream, and a peach-blueberry cobbler. We opted for the truly amazing double chocolate souffle. The souffle was cooked to order and was worth the wait. I cannot even describe how chocolatey it was; I can only tell you that it was made of dark chocolate with an 80% cocoa content!
Prices were very reasonable; the steak sandwich was $11 and our bottle of red wine was $19. I have high hopes for the restaurant's maintaining its winning formula of creative, high-quality food at Brooklyn prices.
Now I have yet another reason to visit my old neighborhood!
Stone Park Cafe: 324 5th Ave., Brooklyn, (718) 369-0082.
Tuesday, September 21, 2004
Red Jacket Orchards
It's officially autumn, time to go apple picking! But if you can't find the time to go out to Wilkens Fruit & Fir Farm, just head over to the Union Square Greenmarket on a Monday. You'll breathe in a delicious apple aroma as you walk towards the Red Jacket Orchards stand. At the front of the tent, you'll see a table covered with different varieties of apples cut to sample. The apples have mouthwatering names like Honey Crisp and Ginger Gold. Each bin is labeled with a delightful bit of trivia; for example, did you know that the Empire apple was developed in 1966?
Later, after you've purchased a 5-lb. bag of apples (a steal at $3.50), bake me a pie and I'll be right over!
Later, after you've purchased a 5-lb. bag of apples (a steal at $3.50), bake me a pie and I'll be right over!
Sunday, September 19, 2004
Le Zoccole
Hearth, with its 28-person waiting list, was not an option tonight. Fortunately, the East Village abounds with excellent, reasonable Italian restaurants, and I was happy to make a reservation at Le Zoccole for a dinner with friends.
After a brief seating snafu, we secured a comfortable table. We then munched on a basket of warm tomato onion focaccia as we perused the menu. The specials included a several types of raw oysters, a skate entree, and a 10-oz. ribeye over garlic mashed potatoes.
We started with some Merlot Kasher Cantina 2002, and continued with the cicchetti (Venetian tapas), a tray loaded with 11 small plates of appetizers. Our favorites were a delectable grilled sardine, soft polenta triangles, fried olives, calamari, and a garlicky salad of cubed octopus, cucumbers and tomatoes. (We were less fond of the rather tasteless stewed beans, but many delicious flavors counteracted them.)
Our entrees were a truffled macaroni and cheese, a pici (hand-rolled ricotta pasta) and a chicken "porchetta". The macaroni and cheese, which arrived in a bowl sprinkled with nutmeg, was fabulously cheesy with pecorino and mozzarella and creamy with ricotta. Although its advertised truffle oil was not much in evidence, I think it would be difficult to find a more satisfying mac 'n' cheese anywhere. The pici (of which a great rendition can also be found at Via Emilia) was a lighter, vegetable-laden pasta dish. The pasta curls were tossed with artichokes, string beans and asparagus. The porchetta, a huge slow-roasted half chicken, was surprisingly rich, slathered with some sort of garlicky butter and served with potatoes, cherry tomatoes and a few sprigs of greens.
The restaurant had now become quite crowded, and when dessert pangs struck, it was difficult to grab the attention of our (very charming) waitress. When we did finally locate her, she sweetly offered us free desserts for our patience. Of course we were thrilled! (Unfortunately, we all wanted the same dessert, so I only tried one kind.) The cioccolatissimo indeed lived up to its superlative. With the touch of a spoon, a gooey hot chocolate mousse oozed forth from its graham cracker surroundings. The whole delicious mess was coated with even more melted chocolate, which converted the accompanying gelato into a satisfying vanilla swirl. Crunchy biscotti completed the dreamy experience.
Le Zoccole: 95 Ave. A, (212) 260-6660.
After a brief seating snafu, we secured a comfortable table. We then munched on a basket of warm tomato onion focaccia as we perused the menu. The specials included a several types of raw oysters, a skate entree, and a 10-oz. ribeye over garlic mashed potatoes.
We started with some Merlot Kasher Cantina 2002, and continued with the cicchetti (Venetian tapas), a tray loaded with 11 small plates of appetizers. Our favorites were a delectable grilled sardine, soft polenta triangles, fried olives, calamari, and a garlicky salad of cubed octopus, cucumbers and tomatoes. (We were less fond of the rather tasteless stewed beans, but many delicious flavors counteracted them.)
Our entrees were a truffled macaroni and cheese, a pici (hand-rolled ricotta pasta) and a chicken "porchetta". The macaroni and cheese, which arrived in a bowl sprinkled with nutmeg, was fabulously cheesy with pecorino and mozzarella and creamy with ricotta. Although its advertised truffle oil was not much in evidence, I think it would be difficult to find a more satisfying mac 'n' cheese anywhere. The pici (of which a great rendition can also be found at Via Emilia) was a lighter, vegetable-laden pasta dish. The pasta curls were tossed with artichokes, string beans and asparagus. The porchetta, a huge slow-roasted half chicken, was surprisingly rich, slathered with some sort of garlicky butter and served with potatoes, cherry tomatoes and a few sprigs of greens.
The restaurant had now become quite crowded, and when dessert pangs struck, it was difficult to grab the attention of our (very charming) waitress. When we did finally locate her, she sweetly offered us free desserts for our patience. Of course we were thrilled! (Unfortunately, we all wanted the same dessert, so I only tried one kind.) The cioccolatissimo indeed lived up to its superlative. With the touch of a spoon, a gooey hot chocolate mousse oozed forth from its graham cracker surroundings. The whole delicious mess was coated with even more melted chocolate, which converted the accompanying gelato into a satisfying vanilla swirl. Crunchy biscotti completed the dreamy experience.
Le Zoccole: 95 Ave. A, (212) 260-6660.
Saturday, September 18, 2004
Sweets News
Here are your Sweets News Stories for September 18, 2004:
The incomparable Beard Papa Fresh 'N' Natural Cream Puffs has indeed opened a new location as of yesterday. You can now indulge in vanilla, green tea, caramel, coffee, or chocolate cream puffs at 740 Broadway (212-353-8888). Enjoy!
A delightful new sweets and bubble tea shop, Cassava Tea, opened up on Tuesday. Tapioca tea and intriguing fruit jelly teas (gingered honey apple, peach lychee) are available, as are various pastries. You'll find Cassava Tea at 474 6th Ave.
The most excellent caramel shortbread cookies, courtesy of One Girl Cookies, are among the many sweet treats offered at Joe (141 Waverly Place, 212-924-6750), a little coffeehouse that is fast becoming my favorite, due to its perfectly foamy cappuccino.
The incomparable Beard Papa Fresh 'N' Natural Cream Puffs has indeed opened a new location as of yesterday. You can now indulge in vanilla, green tea, caramel, coffee, or chocolate cream puffs at 740 Broadway (212-353-8888). Enjoy!
A delightful new sweets and bubble tea shop, Cassava Tea, opened up on Tuesday. Tapioca tea and intriguing fruit jelly teas (gingered honey apple, peach lychee) are available, as are various pastries. You'll find Cassava Tea at 474 6th Ave.
The most excellent caramel shortbread cookies, courtesy of One Girl Cookies, are among the many sweet treats offered at Joe (141 Waverly Place, 212-924-6750), a little coffeehouse that is fast becoming my favorite, due to its perfectly foamy cappuccino.
Saturday, September 11, 2004
Picnic NYC
As summer draws to a close, you might realize that you've let the whole season go by without enjoying one of NYC's great pleasures: a picnic in Central Park.
I myself had this very epiphany while walking down gritty Chrystie Street last night. I don't know exactly why I turned my head near a sign advertising "gas burner parts and supplies," but I'm so glad I did; if I hadn't, I wouldn't have noticed the Picnic NYC food shop. (It's easy to miss.)
The small, bright store is a sight for sore eyes in the middle of all the industrial supplies dealers. Shelves and countertops overflow with many kinds of locally-produced fruit chutneys, cookies, quickbreads and other goodies. There is a serving dish piled high with mini ham and cheese quiches and a tray full of Nutella panini. There is also a small but wonderful selection of cheeses (Piave, Appenzeller, spicy Gorgonzola Picante) from Artisanal Cheese Shop. Tonight, the gracious proprietor, Lex, offered me a taste of the Gorgonzola and I almost bought a pound right there.
Soon, however, my attentions were distracted by the most extraordinary bread-and-butter pickles. Slightly sweet, spicy with hot pepper and pungent with cumin, they were a many-flavored revelation. They could easily put Vlasic out of business forever. But don't take my word for it: attend one of Picnic NYC's weekly pickle tastings! You have three more chances: September 16, 23 and 30 from 6-8 p.m.
Lex was happy to answer any questions I had, and she could describe each product in impressive detail, from its origins to its ingredients. It was gratifying for me to know that I was supporting a cookie baker from Poughkeepsie and a quickbread maker from Long Island.
Central Park is 51 blocks long, so you'll have plenty of room to spread out your luxurious feast. Fill your basket with Picnic NYC's sandwiches, cheese, pickles and cookies, and enjoy the slight breeze as you watch the September sun begin to wane.
Picnic NYC Inc.: 187 Chrystie St., (212) 420-0028.
I myself had this very epiphany while walking down gritty Chrystie Street last night. I don't know exactly why I turned my head near a sign advertising "gas burner parts and supplies," but I'm so glad I did; if I hadn't, I wouldn't have noticed the Picnic NYC food shop. (It's easy to miss.)
The small, bright store is a sight for sore eyes in the middle of all the industrial supplies dealers. Shelves and countertops overflow with many kinds of locally-produced fruit chutneys, cookies, quickbreads and other goodies. There is a serving dish piled high with mini ham and cheese quiches and a tray full of Nutella panini. There is also a small but wonderful selection of cheeses (Piave, Appenzeller, spicy Gorgonzola Picante) from Artisanal Cheese Shop. Tonight, the gracious proprietor, Lex, offered me a taste of the Gorgonzola and I almost bought a pound right there.
Soon, however, my attentions were distracted by the most extraordinary bread-and-butter pickles. Slightly sweet, spicy with hot pepper and pungent with cumin, they were a many-flavored revelation. They could easily put Vlasic out of business forever. But don't take my word for it: attend one of Picnic NYC's weekly pickle tastings! You have three more chances: September 16, 23 and 30 from 6-8 p.m.
Lex was happy to answer any questions I had, and she could describe each product in impressive detail, from its origins to its ingredients. It was gratifying for me to know that I was supporting a cookie baker from Poughkeepsie and a quickbread maker from Long Island.
Central Park is 51 blocks long, so you'll have plenty of room to spread out your luxurious feast. Fill your basket with Picnic NYC's sandwiches, cheese, pickles and cookies, and enjoy the slight breeze as you watch the September sun begin to wane.
Picnic NYC Inc.: 187 Chrystie St., (212) 420-0028.
Friday, September 10, 2004
A Maitake Dinner
The amazing maitake (otherwise known as hen-of-the-woods) mushroom sometimes grows to be over 50 pounds. It is indigenous to Japan, and is highly regarded for its immune-boosting effects.
This mushroom also happens to be so tasty that Kasuza Japanese Restaurant (Note: renamed Tatany 72 as of mid-2005) has decided to feature a special "Maitake Dinner." The dinner consists of a tempura-battered maitake, a rice and maitake dish, miso soup, a daily side dish, and Japanese pickles.
Tatany 72: 1400 2nd Ave., (212) 472-1700.
This mushroom also happens to be so tasty that Kasuza Japanese Restaurant (Note: renamed Tatany 72 as of mid-2005) has decided to feature a special "Maitake Dinner." The dinner consists of a tempura-battered maitake, a rice and maitake dish, miso soup, a daily side dish, and Japanese pickles.
Tatany 72: 1400 2nd Ave., (212) 472-1700.
Thursday, September 09, 2004
Oatmeal Chocolate Chunk or Pumpkin Spice?
Your taste in cookies is a weightier matter than you might think.
Sunday, September 05, 2004
Edible Artwork: Lollipops, M&M's and Ice Cream Cones
The Humble Masterpieces exhibit at MOMA Queens reveals these interesting food factoids:
- Lollipops, which originated in Spain, were conceived as a candy that children could eat without dirtying their hands. The treats were called Chupa Chups, and Salvador Dali drafted their original daisy-patterned wrapper in 1969.
- During the Spanish Civil War, Forrest Mars Sr. encountered soldiers who were enjoying an intriguing treat: small chocolates encased in a meltproof sugar coating. Inspired by this discovery, Mr. Mars created M&M's.
- Italo Marchioni, a Wall Street ice cream vendor, invented the ice cream cone in 1895. His intention was to reduce overhead caused by lost or broken serving dishes.
Friday, September 03, 2004
The Spotted Pig
It was 7:15 p.m. when I arrived at the Spotted Pig, and the crowd of people milling about the entrance was forbiddingly large. I'd heard about the legendary wait to get in, so I hoped I was early enough to put my name down for an 8 p.m. dinner. Fortunately, the wait ended up being exactly 45 minutes; when my friends arrived at 8, the best table opened up. The best table (in my opinion), is the cozy banquette next to the herb windowbox. The room is rather cramped and noisy, and many of the other seats are barstools or chairs squeezed into the space around a brick pillar.
Once we were settled into our table, we munched on olives and almonds, and took stock of the impressive beer menu. Our choices were a creamy Old Speckled Hen, a Pilsner and a raspberry lambic.
The casual atmosphere belied the exquisite food that was to come. Our waitress informed us that organic and seasonal ingredients were used whenever possible, and the appetizer list was full of garden goodies like a red and golden beet salad dressed with horseradish and olive oil, and bruschetta topped with young chanterelles. We ordered the gnudi : five plump ricotta pillows accented with fried sage leaves in the richest butter sauce. We then devoured the duck-egg appetizer, a halved egg soft-boiled until the yellow was slightly creamy, which was nested on a bed of peppery arugula with black olives and heirloom and grape tomatoes.
Entrees were another exercise in bliss: the grilled bass had nicely blackened skin, and was accompanied by a tumble of delicately grilled vegetables: candy-sweet cherry tomatoes and caramelized eggplant. A juicy char-grilled skirt steak came with a chili-spiked two-pepper ratatouille. A wild heap of crisp, well-salted shoestring fries interspersed with rosemary leaves was an addictive side order.
For dessert, the waitress recommended the vanilla ice cream with a choice of blueberries or strawberries. We chose the latter; the fruit was made slightly tangy with a splash of balsamic vinegar. We also indulged in a healthy slice of chocolate bourbon nousse cake with crème fraiche. The French press Danesi coffee was fabulous.
When we finally filed out of the restaurant, there were still people waiting to get in!
The Spotted Pig: 314 West 11th St., (212) 620-0393.
Thursday, September 02, 2004
Tomato Treats
The tomato harvest is beginning to find its way into desserts around town! The other night at Cacio E Pepe (182 2nd Ave., 212-505-5931), I spied a green tomato strudel with basil sorbet, and just now I noticed the crumble-topped almond-tomato cake at Financier Patisserie (62 Stone St. , 212-344-5600). "How is that cake," I asked a waiter. "Very good, and sweet," he replied. "The tomato is a fruit, you know."
Thursday, August 26, 2004
Fat Witch Brownies
A few years ago, I received the optimal birthday present: a gift tin packed with a dozen Fat Witch brownies. My life has never been the same. These chewy squares of perfection are an unforgettable experience, both in their plain chocolate glory or studded with dried cherries or walnuts.
Although the Fat Witch store is located in the Chelsea Market, you can find their luscious chocolate treats at coffeehouses around the city. When I lived in Park Slope, I picked up my weekly quota of brownies at the Tea Lounge on 7th Avenue. Today, I serendipitously happened upon them at Sicaffe Espresso (29 John St., 212-676-0237), one of my favorite downtown alternatives to Starbucks. Sicaffe only carries the miniature "baby" Fat Witch brownies, but they are devastatingly rich. Have one (or four) with an extra-strong cappuccino triestino.
Fat Witch: 75 9th Ave., (212) 807-1335.
Although the Fat Witch store is located in the Chelsea Market, you can find their luscious chocolate treats at coffeehouses around the city. When I lived in Park Slope, I picked up my weekly quota of brownies at the Tea Lounge on 7th Avenue. Today, I serendipitously happened upon them at Sicaffe Espresso (29 John St., 212-676-0237), one of my favorite downtown alternatives to Starbucks. Sicaffe only carries the miniature "baby" Fat Witch brownies, but they are devastatingly rich. Have one (or four) with an extra-strong cappuccino triestino.
Fat Witch: 75 9th Ave., (212) 807-1335.
Saturday, August 21, 2004
Sable's Smoked Fish
Do not go into Sable's if you have dinner plans. The jovial countermen at this legendary food shop will ply you with morsel after tasty morsel of smoked salmon. "Try this one. Do you like your salmon saltier or fattier?" And then, when you have exhausted the salmon possibilities (Scottish, Irish, Norwegian, Eastern Gaspe, etc.), they will tempt you with smoked trout, eel, sturgeon and whitefish. By now you will be quite stuffed, but you will not be able to say no to crostini topped with the "World's Best Lobster Salad" and the "World's Best Crabmeat Salad."
This is exactly what happened to me today. I went into Sable's with the sole intention of buying a chocolate babka for my grandmother, when I was suddenly bombarded with complimentary bites of Irish smoked salmon, Sable's "sushi" (smoked salmon wraps filled with salmon salad), and lobster and crabmeat salads. My evident appreciation of the snacks compelled the countermen to keep offering me more of them. I could barely concentrate on my purchase.
Of course I bought more goodies than I'd intended to. But just as I was about to make my exit, a voice called after me, "Wait, have you tried our chopped liver?"
Sable's Smoked Fish: 1489 2nd Ave., (212) 249-6177.
This is exactly what happened to me today. I went into Sable's with the sole intention of buying a chocolate babka for my grandmother, when I was suddenly bombarded with complimentary bites of Irish smoked salmon, Sable's "sushi" (smoked salmon wraps filled with salmon salad), and lobster and crabmeat salads. My evident appreciation of the snacks compelled the countermen to keep offering me more of them. I could barely concentrate on my purchase.
Of course I bought more goodies than I'd intended to. But just as I was about to make my exit, a voice called after me, "Wait, have you tried our chopped liver?"
Sable's Smoked Fish: 1489 2nd Ave., (212) 249-6177.
Friday, August 13, 2004
Malagueta
The malagueta is an extremely potent hot pepper which grows in Brazil. When blended with olive oil, it makes a piquant molho, or sauce, which livens up any dish. This wonderfully powerful sauce can be found at the malagueta's namesake restaurant in Astoria. (Make sure to ask for it, as it's not listed on the menu.)
Tonight, my friend and I spooned the molho de malagueta over everything but our dessert! We started out with an order of acaraje, tasty black-eyed pea fritters topped with sauteed shrimp and vatapa (a puree of bread, cashews, fish and shrimp. Although this puree was billed as "spicy" on the menu, it was actually rather mild). Since I was a bit too liberal with the hot sauce, I welcomed the opportunity to cool my mouth with exotic juices such as caju (cashew tree fruit juice).
Since it was a Friday, we couldn't order the feijoada (Brazil's national dish, which is only served on Saturdays at Malagueta). So, we enjoyed a shrimp and red pepper stew in coconut gravy, which surrounded a large mound of white rice. I quickly devoured the six jumbo shrimp and then tried my friend's entree, the roasted filet of pollack. The generous portion of delicate, slightly sweet fish was moistened with shrimp sauce and topped with more vatapa.
Sitting behind me was a lively table of people celebrating a "dad-to-be." When I looked to see what goodies they might be consuming, I noticed a plate of mandioca frita. Malagueta offers the fried tuber as an appetizer with grilled Brazilian sausages; it's also an addictive side dish on its own. (I'll order it next time.)
There are three dessert options at Malagueta: milk flan, coconut pudding and passionfruit mousse. We ordered the mousse, which was creamy, refreshing and slightly tart. The accompanying cappuccinos were excellent.
Malagueta offers free delivery to the lucky residents of Astoria.
Malagueta: 25-35 36th Ave., Astoria, NY, (718) 937-4821.
Tonight, my friend and I spooned the molho de malagueta over everything but our dessert! We started out with an order of acaraje, tasty black-eyed pea fritters topped with sauteed shrimp and vatapa (a puree of bread, cashews, fish and shrimp. Although this puree was billed as "spicy" on the menu, it was actually rather mild). Since I was a bit too liberal with the hot sauce, I welcomed the opportunity to cool my mouth with exotic juices such as caju (cashew tree fruit juice).
Since it was a Friday, we couldn't order the feijoada (Brazil's national dish, which is only served on Saturdays at Malagueta). So, we enjoyed a shrimp and red pepper stew in coconut gravy, which surrounded a large mound of white rice. I quickly devoured the six jumbo shrimp and then tried my friend's entree, the roasted filet of pollack. The generous portion of delicate, slightly sweet fish was moistened with shrimp sauce and topped with more vatapa.
Sitting behind me was a lively table of people celebrating a "dad-to-be." When I looked to see what goodies they might be consuming, I noticed a plate of mandioca frita. Malagueta offers the fried tuber as an appetizer with grilled Brazilian sausages; it's also an addictive side dish on its own. (I'll order it next time.)
There are three dessert options at Malagueta: milk flan, coconut pudding and passionfruit mousse. We ordered the mousse, which was creamy, refreshing and slightly tart. The accompanying cappuccinos were excellent.
Malagueta offers free delivery to the lucky residents of Astoria.
Malagueta: 25-35 36th Ave., Astoria, NY, (718) 937-4821.
Thursday, August 12, 2004
The Grey Dog's Coffee
The stretch of Carmine Street between Bleecker and 7th Avenue evokes the main drag of a college town. Storefronts sell rare vinyl, guitars, used books, and Tibetan jewelry. The Grey Dog's Coffee is right at home in this atmosphere, with its blackboard menu, gargantuan Rice Krispie treats and proximity to the "Unoppressive, Non-Imperialist Bargain Book Store."
Unpretentious and homey, the café appeals to the young and young-at-heart with a menu of fresh-baked goods, omelettes and jumbo sandwiches. The sandwiches are served on your choice of homemade bread, which varieties include olive, jalapeno, 9-grain, basil, and rosemary-garlic. This lovely fresh bread is sliced so thickly as to be sufficient for three sandwiches. Try the tuna melt with cheddar and ripe tomatoes on country white, or the smoked turkey and Brie with sundried tomato and raspberry mustard. If you're in more of a salad mood, the Cobb salad does not stint on avocado.
Accompany your sandwich with a nice strong cup of java and a chocolate-chip cookie the size of a schoolroom clock!
The Grey Dog's Coffee: 33 Carmine St., (212) 462-0041.
Unpretentious and homey, the café appeals to the young and young-at-heart with a menu of fresh-baked goods, omelettes and jumbo sandwiches. The sandwiches are served on your choice of homemade bread, which varieties include olive, jalapeno, 9-grain, basil, and rosemary-garlic. This lovely fresh bread is sliced so thickly as to be sufficient for three sandwiches. Try the tuna melt with cheddar and ripe tomatoes on country white, or the smoked turkey and Brie with sundried tomato and raspberry mustard. If you're in more of a salad mood, the Cobb salad does not stint on avocado.
Accompany your sandwich with a nice strong cup of java and a chocolate-chip cookie the size of a schoolroom clock!
The Grey Dog's Coffee: 33 Carmine St., (212) 462-0041.
Wednesday, August 04, 2004
Picket Fence
Picket Fence is the first place in Ditmas Park to serve American comfort food! Although this quaint restaurant is delightful enough to be a boon for any neighborhood, Cortelyou Road ached for it. Owner/chef Graham, a fresh transplant from Riverdale, has created a warm and inviting space in which to enjoy his creations. You can eat in either the sunny yellow dining room or the backyard garden where Graham grows thyme, rosemary, and tomatoes.
You'll find many of your favorites at Picket Fence, albeit with a creative twist. Do you crave meatloaf? There's a wonderful turkey version with a side of buttery Yukon gold mashed potatoes and green beans. Looking for buffalo wings and Blue cheese dip? Order the spicy barbequed fried chicken sandwich sprinkled with Gorgonzola. Potato chip addicts can munch away at the chive-dusted garlic potato crisps. If you're looking for a light meal, have a bowl of chilled potato leek soup and a roasted corn pancake with lemon cream and smoked salmon.
For dessert, enjoy the homemade dark chocolate blondies, peanut butter cookies, vanilla-speckled creme brulee and a demitasse of rich double chocolate pudding topped by a cap of fresh whipped cream.
Ditmas Park residents will be happy to know that Picket Fence now delivers. No more traipsing to Park Slope for a burger!
Picket Fence: 1310 Cortelyou Rd., Brooklyn, (718) 282-6661.
You'll find many of your favorites at Picket Fence, albeit with a creative twist. Do you crave meatloaf? There's a wonderful turkey version with a side of buttery Yukon gold mashed potatoes and green beans. Looking for buffalo wings and Blue cheese dip? Order the spicy barbequed fried chicken sandwich sprinkled with Gorgonzola. Potato chip addicts can munch away at the chive-dusted garlic potato crisps. If you're looking for a light meal, have a bowl of chilled potato leek soup and a roasted corn pancake with lemon cream and smoked salmon.
For dessert, enjoy the homemade dark chocolate blondies, peanut butter cookies, vanilla-speckled creme brulee and a demitasse of rich double chocolate pudding topped by a cap of fresh whipped cream.
Ditmas Park residents will be happy to know that Picket Fence now delivers. No more traipsing to Park Slope for a burger!
Picket Fence: 1310 Cortelyou Rd., Brooklyn, (718) 282-6661.
Tuesday, August 03, 2004
Pepolino
This charming, hospitable trattoria, tucked away just below Canal Street, is a favorite of mine. My recent dinner there was a melange of vivid garden flavors; were it not for the sounds of the busy intersection, I could've fancied myself to be enjoying a summer meal in the country. The complimentary tomato-basil "flan," served in a pool of olive oil, was a luscious spread for a basket of crusty Italian bread. I saved a few thick slices of bread to sop up the tangy lemon cream sauce of my fresh tagliolini entree, which was topped with a bit of grated lemon zest. (On occasion, I have also enjoyed the pappardelle with tomato and thyme.)
For dessert, I indulged in the strawberry bavarese: a creamy dome of vanilla panna cotta smothered in strawberry puree. A few sips of espresso completed this satisfying supper.
Pepolino: 281 W. Broadway, (212) 966-9983.
For dessert, I indulged in the strawberry bavarese: a creamy dome of vanilla panna cotta smothered in strawberry puree. A few sips of espresso completed this satisfying supper.
Pepolino: 281 W. Broadway, (212) 966-9983.
Monday, August 02, 2004
Sweets News
Here are your Sweets News Stories for August 2, 2004:
Australian Homemade, purveyor of psychedelic Belgian chocolates (115 St. Mark's Place, 212-228-5439), will soon open a second location at 18th and Broadway. Australian Homemade sells luscious "Bonzers" (nutty chocolate squares) and "Dreamers" (imaginatively decorated chocolates with creamy soft fillings).
Who knew that cream puffs would become such a sought-after treat? The line at Beard Papa's Fresh 'N' Natural Cream Puffs (2167 Broadway, 212-799-3770) continues to grow. The store owners must have realized that the line will eventually reach the southern tip of Manhattan, so they have wisely decided to open up at Broadway and Astor Place.
Sunday, August 01, 2004
Agua de Sandia
On a hot August day, what could be more refreshing than a tall, cool glass of agua de sandia? This traditional Mexican watermelon juice drink is featured at the Downtown Bakery, and I guarantee that it's as effective as a personal air conditioner (at least while it lasts).
Downtown Bakery/Mexican Food: 69 1st Ave., (212) 254-1757.
Downtown Bakery/Mexican Food: 69 1st Ave., (212) 254-1757.
Thursday, July 22, 2004
BLT Steak
If you want to go off your diet, BLT Steak is the best place to do so! The generous portions will tempt the most moderate of eaters. For former Atkins devotees, there are huge parmesan-crusted popovers and 7 different potato preparations. For those who've been avoiding sweets, there are chocolate tarts, lemon meringue pies and carrot cakes. Last night, for the lapsed vegetarians, there was a 21-oz. Chateaubriand special for two topped with foie gras.
My companion and I let a couple glasses of Chateauneuf-du-Papes loosen our ordering inhibitions and we decided on three appetizers, two entrees, four side dishes and two desserts. Now the indulgence would begin.
The waitress brought by complementary duck liver mousse and crostini, as well as the aforementioned popovers. Just one of the puffy breads was almost enough for a meal!
The Parmesan-crouton Caesar salad was terrific, its leaves of romaine well-coated with a garlicky, anchovy-laced dressing. A shrimp cocktail consisted of four giant shrimp and spicy cocktail sauce. The tuna tartare was a sensual square of sashimi-grade tuna, under which was a bed of creamy avocado and a pool of soy-citrus sauce. The crispy shallots and microgreens on top provided an extra zing.
A juicy ribeye steak, served in a big cast iron pan, was marinated in olive oil and garlic. The spiced grilled swordfish arrived in a Moroccan-influenced preparation of tangy preserved lemons, coriander, cilantro and harissa. Our chosen side dishes were French fries with cilantro mayonnaise, the sweetest braised carrot flowerettes, a faintly smoky hen-of-the-woods mushroom, and rich creamy spinach. There were so many pans of delicious foods on the table that it was difficult to figure out what to eat!
Dessert was another dilemma. I normally opt for the most chocolatey selection; last night, a chocolate tart and a peanut butter chocolate mousse competed for my attention. The dessert special, a lovely gooey-centered warm chocolate cake, ended up being my choice. It came with a small oval of condensed milk ice cream studded with a bit of chocolate tulle. My companion delighted in the seemingly mile-high orange-raspberry sundae, a marvelous parfait of orange, vanilla and raspberry with meringue "marshmallows." And I must not forget the chewy chocolate-coffee brownies that arrived unexpectedly. Next time, I'll ask for a bag of them!
BLT Steak: 106 East 57th St., 752-7470.
My companion and I let a couple glasses of Chateauneuf-du-Papes loosen our ordering inhibitions and we decided on three appetizers, two entrees, four side dishes and two desserts. Now the indulgence would begin.
The waitress brought by complementary duck liver mousse and crostini, as well as the aforementioned popovers. Just one of the puffy breads was almost enough for a meal!
The Parmesan-crouton Caesar salad was terrific, its leaves of romaine well-coated with a garlicky, anchovy-laced dressing. A shrimp cocktail consisted of four giant shrimp and spicy cocktail sauce. The tuna tartare was a sensual square of sashimi-grade tuna, under which was a bed of creamy avocado and a pool of soy-citrus sauce. The crispy shallots and microgreens on top provided an extra zing.
A juicy ribeye steak, served in a big cast iron pan, was marinated in olive oil and garlic. The spiced grilled swordfish arrived in a Moroccan-influenced preparation of tangy preserved lemons, coriander, cilantro and harissa. Our chosen side dishes were French fries with cilantro mayonnaise, the sweetest braised carrot flowerettes, a faintly smoky hen-of-the-woods mushroom, and rich creamy spinach. There were so many pans of delicious foods on the table that it was difficult to figure out what to eat!
Dessert was another dilemma. I normally opt for the most chocolatey selection; last night, a chocolate tart and a peanut butter chocolate mousse competed for my attention. The dessert special, a lovely gooey-centered warm chocolate cake, ended up being my choice. It came with a small oval of condensed milk ice cream studded with a bit of chocolate tulle. My companion delighted in the seemingly mile-high orange-raspberry sundae, a marvelous parfait of orange, vanilla and raspberry with meringue "marshmallows." And I must not forget the chewy chocolate-coffee brownies that arrived unexpectedly. Next time, I'll ask for a bag of them!
BLT Steak: 106 East 57th St., 752-7470.
Friday, July 16, 2004
A Peppery Meal At Lupa
On several occasions, I've been on my way to Tomoe when I've been sidetracked by the delicious scent of garlic wafting from Lupa next door. Tonight was one of those nights; the heavenly aroma pulled me in and deposited me firmly at Lupa's bar.
Lupa is a wonderful place for a light summer dinner; one can easily make a varied and filling meal from the antipasti e salume. This portion of the menu is divided into vegetable, fish, Italian cold cuts and salad categories. I'm especially fond of the octopus and garbanzo salad. Tonight, as I decided between the black kale and fried garlic or the lightly vinegared sea bass scabece with arugula (I chose the latter), I was briefly distracted by a plate of paper-thin slices of prosciutto di parma that was on its way to a nearby table.
Although I could have happily continued with more antipasti, I remembered how much I loved the bavette cacio e pepe. This perfect pasta dish is a bowl of linguini-like pasta, made pungent with melted sheep's-milk cheese and spicy with generously sprinkled black pepper. I don't think I could ever tire of it.
The peppery experience was unexpectedly prolonged with my dessert order: a flower of apricot-petaled panna cotta highlighted with pink peppercorns. The heat of the spice was a nice counterpart to the cool, creamy custard.
As I exited Lupa, I saw the usual long line of people waiting to eat at Tomoe. I patted my full stomach with a satisfied smile.
Lupa: 170 Thompson St., (212) 982-5089.
Lupa is a wonderful place for a light summer dinner; one can easily make a varied and filling meal from the antipasti e salume. This portion of the menu is divided into vegetable, fish, Italian cold cuts and salad categories. I'm especially fond of the octopus and garbanzo salad. Tonight, as I decided between the black kale and fried garlic or the lightly vinegared sea bass scabece with arugula (I chose the latter), I was briefly distracted by a plate of paper-thin slices of prosciutto di parma that was on its way to a nearby table.
Although I could have happily continued with more antipasti, I remembered how much I loved the bavette cacio e pepe. This perfect pasta dish is a bowl of linguini-like pasta, made pungent with melted sheep's-milk cheese and spicy with generously sprinkled black pepper. I don't think I could ever tire of it.
The peppery experience was unexpectedly prolonged with my dessert order: a flower of apricot-petaled panna cotta highlighted with pink peppercorns. The heat of the spice was a nice counterpart to the cool, creamy custard.
As I exited Lupa, I saw the usual long line of people waiting to eat at Tomoe. I patted my full stomach with a satisfied smile.
Lupa: 170 Thompson St., (212) 982-5089.
Sunday, July 11, 2004
Benoit
Delicious creamy frozen treats are popping up all over the city. Just two months ago, a wonderful new ice creamery/patisserie opened up on Lexington Avenue to the great delight of Upper East Siders. Benoit Gerin, a Jean-Georges alumnus who has produced fine ice cream in NYC since 1999, has debuted a refreshing menu of iced cakes, sorbets and coupes glacees. On a hot sunny day, what could be more appealing than the Special Benoit: a cup of mango, coconut and passionfruit sorbets topped with raspberry sauce and whipped cream? Or how about the Pear Belle Helene, a poached pear with vanilla and chocolate ice cream, chocolate sauce and whipped cream? (For the diet-conscious, there is also the "skinny juice": carrot, orange and ginger juice. Somehow I think I'll be more focused on the fattening part of the menu.)
Benoit: 1212 Lexington Ave., (212) 327-4369.
Benoit: 1212 Lexington Ave., (212) 327-4369.
Wednesday, June 30, 2004
Shore
Lounging in wicker chairs, we felt as though we were still on vacation in Montauk. Fortunately for us, a new menu of exotic cocktails was debuting tonight, and we decided to prolong our festivities with two big glasses of "Shore Grog." This deceptively smooth blend of spiced, dark, and coconut rums and pineapple and orange juices was quite potent! (Also on the drink menu was an intriguing oyster martini, which we'll have to try on our next visit.)
We munched on warm cornbread while reading over the extensive menu. As is evidenced by the name, Shore specializes in all manner of littlenecks, steamers, lobster rolls and fresh fish. (For those not inclined towards seafood, there's also a 10 oz. burger and a chicken pot pie.) The daily specials today included a fritto misto and a linguini in tomato cream sauce with two kinds of clams.
I opted for the Boston Batter-Fried Combo Plate, a giant tumble of tasty flash-fried clams, sweet jumbo shrimp, and plump scallops scattered over a filet of sole and accompanied by a large pile of French fries. The seafood was perfectly and greaselessly fried, the batter light and flaky. Long after I was full, I could not restrain myself from dipping yet another fried clam in the addictive coriander cocktail and tartar sauces.
My companion's scallop roll was a generous portion of grilled scallops on a toasted, buttered hot dog roll, served with a side of greens.
A homemade strawberry-blueberry pie with a buttery crumb topping was the perfect finale to a completely satisfying summer meal. (Other dessert options included strawberry pie, rhubarb pie and "North Shore" chocolate bread pudding.)
We'll be back for the Sunday jazz brunch and the weekday happy-hour special: 6 oysters and a pint of ale for $10!
Shore: 41 Murray St., (212) 962-3750.
We munched on warm cornbread while reading over the extensive menu. As is evidenced by the name, Shore specializes in all manner of littlenecks, steamers, lobster rolls and fresh fish. (For those not inclined towards seafood, there's also a 10 oz. burger and a chicken pot pie.) The daily specials today included a fritto misto and a linguini in tomato cream sauce with two kinds of clams.
I opted for the Boston Batter-Fried Combo Plate, a giant tumble of tasty flash-fried clams, sweet jumbo shrimp, and plump scallops scattered over a filet of sole and accompanied by a large pile of French fries. The seafood was perfectly and greaselessly fried, the batter light and flaky. Long after I was full, I could not restrain myself from dipping yet another fried clam in the addictive coriander cocktail and tartar sauces.
My companion's scallop roll was a generous portion of grilled scallops on a toasted, buttered hot dog roll, served with a side of greens.
A homemade strawberry-blueberry pie with a buttery crumb topping was the perfect finale to a completely satisfying summer meal. (Other dessert options included strawberry pie, rhubarb pie and "North Shore" chocolate bread pudding.)
We'll be back for the Sunday jazz brunch and the weekday happy-hour special: 6 oysters and a pint of ale for $10!
Shore: 41 Murray St., (212) 962-3750.
Sunday, June 20, 2004
Chaa Chaa
I never tire of chocolate ice cream. However, on those rare occasions when I venture beyond chocolate territory, I search out the exotic. Yesterday I went to Chaa Chaa, a small Thai cafe/bakery/ice cream shop which offers a truly unique selection of homemade ice cream flavors, such as black sticky rice, coconut black bean, jasmine palm, lychee and durian. (Yes, you read that correctly. The unlikely fruit seems to be taking Manhattan by storm, making appearances in the cream pie at 5 Ninth and the ice cream at Spice Market!) For those of you who prefer more conventional ice cream, there's also strawberry, pistachio and double dutch chocolate.
Chaa Chaa serves a three-course lunch special for $7, which includes a summer roll (basically a salad tightly wrapped into a thin rice flour tortilla), a choice of chicken or beef curry with rice, and ice cream. Who can resist a lunch special that includes ice cream!
Chaa Chaa: 244 E. 13th St., (212) 529-8770.
Chaa Chaa serves a three-course lunch special for $7, which includes a summer roll (basically a salad tightly wrapped into a thin rice flour tortilla), a choice of chicken or beef curry with rice, and ice cream. Who can resist a lunch special that includes ice cream!
Chaa Chaa: 244 E. 13th St., (212) 529-8770.
Friday, June 18, 2004
Cold Hot Chocolate
Just in time for the heat wave, Brooklyn's very own Jacques Torres Chocolate has invented a new, refreshing beverage to soothe one's soul: "Cold Hot Chocolate"! Flavored with a bit of mandarin and served ice-cold, it's the perfect remedy for a day spent on hot subway platforms.
Jacques Torres Chocolate: 66 Water St., Brooklyn, (718) 875-9772.
Jacques Torres Chocolate: 66 Water St., Brooklyn, (718) 875-9772.
Tuesday, June 15, 2004
Munching in Montauk (Part 3: Oyster Pond Restaurant & Bar)
We concluded our trip with a memorable meal at Oyster Pond.
The oak-paneled walls and floral banquettes provided an atmosphere of relaxed elegance in which to dine. Warm rosemary focaccia dipped in olive oil whetted our appetites. We began with lobster gazpacho, a unique variation on the summer classic. This was the perfect gazpacho; pulpy, not vinegary or watery, and slightly piquant. In between bites of fresh tomato were sweet chunks of lobster. Our waitress raved about Chef Anthony Alinovi's homemade stocks and sauces when we remarked upon the excellence of the soup. I also enjoyed smearing a flaky ginger-spiked spring roll in hot mustard. The miso-based dressing on the accompanying green salad was among the best I've ever tasted.
Entree time! A soy-mirin glaze added a touch of salty-sweetness to my grilled yellowfin tuna. The large hunk of fish was sprinkled with sesame seeds, punctuated with pickled ginger and wasabi and served on a bed of sticky rice and julienned vegetables. My companion opted for a grilled pizza covered with wild mushrooms, onions and black olives.
We ended this wonderful last meal in Montauk with a chocolate soufflé. A scoop of homemade caramel swirl ice cream (they also have malted milk ball and chocolate caramel swirl) and ribbons of mango and raspberry coulis were fun to mix with the inner chocolate center of the cake.
Oyster Pond Restaurant & Bar: 4 S. Elmwood, Montauk, (631) 668-4200.
The oak-paneled walls and floral banquettes provided an atmosphere of relaxed elegance in which to dine. Warm rosemary focaccia dipped in olive oil whetted our appetites. We began with lobster gazpacho, a unique variation on the summer classic. This was the perfect gazpacho; pulpy, not vinegary or watery, and slightly piquant. In between bites of fresh tomato were sweet chunks of lobster. Our waitress raved about Chef Anthony Alinovi's homemade stocks and sauces when we remarked upon the excellence of the soup. I also enjoyed smearing a flaky ginger-spiked spring roll in hot mustard. The miso-based dressing on the accompanying green salad was among the best I've ever tasted.
Entree time! A soy-mirin glaze added a touch of salty-sweetness to my grilled yellowfin tuna. The large hunk of fish was sprinkled with sesame seeds, punctuated with pickled ginger and wasabi and served on a bed of sticky rice and julienned vegetables. My companion opted for a grilled pizza covered with wild mushrooms, onions and black olives.
We ended this wonderful last meal in Montauk with a chocolate soufflé. A scoop of homemade caramel swirl ice cream (they also have malted milk ball and chocolate caramel swirl) and ribbons of mango and raspberry coulis were fun to mix with the inner chocolate center of the cake.
Oyster Pond Restaurant & Bar: 4 S. Elmwood, Montauk, (631) 668-4200.
Monday, June 14, 2004
Munching in Montauk (Part 2: Fudge N' Stuff, etc.)
In between that first lovely meal at the Shagwong and the final one at Oyster Pond (which I shall detail shortly), I also thoroughly enjoyed:
Fudge N' Stuff (The Plaza, 631-668-4724): Every beach town seems to have a homemade fudge shop. Most of my childhood summers were spent gorging at Candy Kitchen in Ocean City, MD, so I felt right at home at Fudge N' Stuff. This little shop is chock full of such flavors as Cookies & Cream, Almond Joy and Mud Pie. It's also full of smiles!
Mr. John's Pancake and Steak House (Main St., 631-668-2383): All that laying out in the sun can make a person hungry. Sunbathers should carbo-load with a morning plate of pancakes at Mr. John's. This comfy diner serves many varieties of griddlecakes: chocolate-chip, coconut/coconut syrup, cinnamon-raisin... I opted for some whole-wheat banana pecan cakes, which seemed even larger than the plate they arrived on.
Montauk Bake Shoppe (The Plaza, 631-668-2439): It's no wonder that this bakery has been around since the 50's. The jelly-filled croissants, tomato red onion flatbreads, and lobster-shaped cookies render it a regional, if not national, treasure.
Gosman's Fish Market (Gosman's Dock, 631-668-5645): Although almost everything at Gosman's Restaurant left me cold (except for the sherry-spiked lobster bisque), I was mightily impressed by the gorgeous fish market in the complex, which sells any fish or seafood one's heart might desire, including gorgeous lobsters.
Fudge N' Stuff (The Plaza, 631-668-4724): Every beach town seems to have a homemade fudge shop. Most of my childhood summers were spent gorging at Candy Kitchen in Ocean City, MD, so I felt right at home at Fudge N' Stuff. This little shop is chock full of such flavors as Cookies & Cream, Almond Joy and Mud Pie. It's also full of smiles!
Mr. John's Pancake and Steak House (Main St., 631-668-2383): All that laying out in the sun can make a person hungry. Sunbathers should carbo-load with a morning plate of pancakes at Mr. John's. This comfy diner serves many varieties of griddlecakes: chocolate-chip, coconut/coconut syrup, cinnamon-raisin... I opted for some whole-wheat banana pecan cakes, which seemed even larger than the plate they arrived on.
Montauk Bake Shoppe (The Plaza, 631-668-2439): It's no wonder that this bakery has been around since the 50's. The jelly-filled croissants, tomato red onion flatbreads, and lobster-shaped cookies render it a regional, if not national, treasure.
Gosman's Fish Market (Gosman's Dock, 631-668-5645): Although almost everything at Gosman's Restaurant left me cold (except for the sherry-spiked lobster bisque), I was mightily impressed by the gorgeous fish market in the complex, which sells any fish or seafood one's heart might desire, including gorgeous lobsters.
Sunday, June 13, 2004
Munching in Montauk (Part 1: Shagwong Restaurant)
As the temperature rose this week, I was seized by an uncontrollable desire to be near the ocean. Most of all, I longed to eat fresh fish and seafood by the water. With visions of baked littlenecks in my head, I hopped on a train to Montauk with a companion.
Although we were to enjoy many delicious meals over the course of the trip, the first and last meals stand out in particular: a dinner at the 30-yr-old Shagwong Restaurant, and one at the charmingly rustic Oyster Pond.
Neon fish and lobsters announced the presence of the salt-of-the-earth Shagwong. Once inside, I was captivated by the nautical atmosphere, and even more so by the giant plates of food. The menu overwhelmed me... the wild Atlantic salmon special tempted me. I finally decided on the yellowfin tuna special; unfortunately, so did my companion. Not wanting to miss the opportunity to try more than one entree, I ordered the broiled local fluke. Each dish came with a choice of codfish cake, beef vegetable soup, green salad or cole slaw. We ordered the salad, and settled on the mussels for an appetizer.
We were astonished when a bowl of 40 large mussels arrived at our table. How on earth were we going to finish this "appetizer"? Dipping the plump, sweet mollusks into our garlic white wine sauce, we did manage to make a dent in the pile of large black shells. I also paid some attention to my delicious salad of tomatoes, red onions, field greens, carrots, radicchio, watercress and cucumbers.
No sooner had we signaled our satiety than our entrees were served. My perfectly moist fluke was slathered liberally with lemon butter and served with a toothsome long-grain rice pilaf and steamed carrots and string beans. I eyed my companion's entree with envy: seared, pepper-crusted rare tuna over greens with ponzu sauce, wasabi and pickled ginger. Fortunately, he agreed to share.
Almost stuffed beyond the ability to breathe, I nevertheless asked what was available for dessert. Apple crumb pie? Key lime pie? Cheesecake? The warm molten chocolate cake was my natural choice; Shagwong's denser-than-usual rendition was enough to satisfy both of us, at least until tomorrow.
More about the trip coming soon!
Shagwong Restaurant: Main St., Montauk, (631) 668-3050.
Although we were to enjoy many delicious meals over the course of the trip, the first and last meals stand out in particular: a dinner at the 30-yr-old Shagwong Restaurant, and one at the charmingly rustic Oyster Pond.
Neon fish and lobsters announced the presence of the salt-of-the-earth Shagwong. Once inside, I was captivated by the nautical atmosphere, and even more so by the giant plates of food. The menu overwhelmed me... the wild Atlantic salmon special tempted me. I finally decided on the yellowfin tuna special; unfortunately, so did my companion. Not wanting to miss the opportunity to try more than one entree, I ordered the broiled local fluke. Each dish came with a choice of codfish cake, beef vegetable soup, green salad or cole slaw. We ordered the salad, and settled on the mussels for an appetizer.
We were astonished when a bowl of 40 large mussels arrived at our table. How on earth were we going to finish this "appetizer"? Dipping the plump, sweet mollusks into our garlic white wine sauce, we did manage to make a dent in the pile of large black shells. I also paid some attention to my delicious salad of tomatoes, red onions, field greens, carrots, radicchio, watercress and cucumbers.
No sooner had we signaled our satiety than our entrees were served. My perfectly moist fluke was slathered liberally with lemon butter and served with a toothsome long-grain rice pilaf and steamed carrots and string beans. I eyed my companion's entree with envy: seared, pepper-crusted rare tuna over greens with ponzu sauce, wasabi and pickled ginger. Fortunately, he agreed to share.
Almost stuffed beyond the ability to breathe, I nevertheless asked what was available for dessert. Apple crumb pie? Key lime pie? Cheesecake? The warm molten chocolate cake was my natural choice; Shagwong's denser-than-usual rendition was enough to satisfy both of us, at least until tomorrow.
More about the trip coming soon!
Shagwong Restaurant: Main St., Montauk, (631) 668-3050.
Monday, May 31, 2004
Nick's Pizza and Bonelle Pastry Shop
As any denizen of the outer boroughs knows, it can be difficult to convince a Manhattanite to meet outside the island. However, since moving to Forest Hills, I have tempted many a visitor with an evening of fantastic pizza and pastries, courtesy of Nick's Pizza and Bonelle Pastry Shop.
Typically, I'll meet a friend at the 71st and Continental stop on the E/F train. We'll walk to Ascan Avenue and then wait for a short while in the doorway of Nick's. Soon, we'll be graciously seated and will whet our appetites with a five-leaf salad sprinkled with plenty of Gorgonzola. We'll order a large white pizza with extra garlic and black olives, which will arrive topped with a thick layer of fresh mozzarella and a sprinkling of basil leaves. (One has the choice of ricotta, mozzarella or a combination thereof for the white pizza, but for me, ricotta seems most appropriate in the context of a calzone.) Then we'll order a pizza with luscious tomato sauce and mushrooms. The crust of each pizza will be thin and slightly charred on the bottom.
The tiramisu is fabulous at Nick's, but I'll want to impress my visitor with the variety of goodies at Bonelle Pastry Shop, which is right next door. We will ooh and aah over the chocolate raspberry mousse, strawberry shortcake, carrot cake and oversized eclairs. Everything is always impeccably fresh. On the weekends, if I crave a particular pastry at Bonelle, I make sure to confiscate it early in the morning. (I learned this the hard way; on more than one occasion, I had arrived just after a Long Island gentleman had driven off with all of the chocolate croissants.)
Pay me a visit soon!
Nick's Pizza: 108-26 Ascan Ave., Queens, (718) 263-1126. Bonelle Pastry Shop: 108-30 Ascan Ave., Queens, (718) 575-1792.
Typically, I'll meet a friend at the 71st and Continental stop on the E/F train. We'll walk to Ascan Avenue and then wait for a short while in the doorway of Nick's. Soon, we'll be graciously seated and will whet our appetites with a five-leaf salad sprinkled with plenty of Gorgonzola. We'll order a large white pizza with extra garlic and black olives, which will arrive topped with a thick layer of fresh mozzarella and a sprinkling of basil leaves. (One has the choice of ricotta, mozzarella or a combination thereof for the white pizza, but for me, ricotta seems most appropriate in the context of a calzone.) Then we'll order a pizza with luscious tomato sauce and mushrooms. The crust of each pizza will be thin and slightly charred on the bottom.
The tiramisu is fabulous at Nick's, but I'll want to impress my visitor with the variety of goodies at Bonelle Pastry Shop, which is right next door. We will ooh and aah over the chocolate raspberry mousse, strawberry shortcake, carrot cake and oversized eclairs. Everything is always impeccably fresh. On the weekends, if I crave a particular pastry at Bonelle, I make sure to confiscate it early in the morning. (I learned this the hard way; on more than one occasion, I had arrived just after a Long Island gentleman had driven off with all of the chocolate croissants.)
Pay me a visit soon!
Nick's Pizza: 108-26 Ascan Ave., Queens, (718) 263-1126. Bonelle Pastry Shop: 108-30 Ascan Ave., Queens, (718) 575-1792.
Thursday, May 13, 2004
Steve's Authentic Key Lime Pie
Yesterday, I received the news that the best key lime pie in the world will be available at the corner of 48th Street during the annual Ninth Avenue International Food Festival. What makes this pie so extraordinary? Fresh-squeezed key lime juice, a graham cracker crust made with 100% pure butter, and the single-minded dedication of Steve Tarpin (the "Pie Man").
My craving thus awakened, I knew I couldn't wait for the weekend (or for overnight delivery). There was only one solution: to rush over to Alma, the popular Mexican restaurant that offers this amazing pie.
Ninth Avenue International Food Festival: 9th Ave. from 37th-57th Streets, May 15-May 16.
My craving thus awakened, I knew I couldn't wait for the weekend (or for overnight delivery). There was only one solution: to rush over to Alma, the popular Mexican restaurant that offers this amazing pie.
Ninth Avenue International Food Festival: 9th Ave. from 37th-57th Streets, May 15-May 16.
Monday, May 10, 2004
Mary's Dairy (CLOSED as of 10/07)
As I walked down West 4th St. on this warm spring day, I found myself craving chocolate ice cream. I was about to ignore this desire and hop on the subway when I noticed Mary's Dairy, a brand-new super-premium ice cream shop.
The chocolate options were numerous. "Exotic" flavors included "Sandy": Belgian chocolate with pieces of pistachio halvah, "Hawaii Five-O Callebaut": chocolate with Callebaut chips and macadamias, "White On White": French vanilla with white Callebaut chips, and "Ying Yang", milk chocolate with Valrhona chips. I opted for the latter, topped with a generous portion of thick-as-molasses "Inoue" bittersweet hot fudge. The ice cream was not overly sugary, but it was unbelievably creamy. The hot fudge was out of this world!
On a day in which I'm feeling even more decadent, I might try the "Too Much Is Just About Enough!": three scoops of ice cream sitting on a brownie, a Krispy Kreme donut and a homemade chocolate chip cookie!
Mary's Dairy: 171 West 4th St., (212) 242-6874.
The chocolate options were numerous. "Exotic" flavors included "Sandy": Belgian chocolate with pieces of pistachio halvah, "Hawaii Five-O Callebaut": chocolate with Callebaut chips and macadamias, "White On White": French vanilla with white Callebaut chips, and "Ying Yang", milk chocolate with Valrhona chips. I opted for the latter, topped with a generous portion of thick-as-molasses "Inoue" bittersweet hot fudge. The ice cream was not overly sugary, but it was unbelievably creamy. The hot fudge was out of this world!
On a day in which I'm feeling even more decadent, I might try the "Too Much Is Just About Enough!": three scoops of ice cream sitting on a brownie, a Krispy Kreme donut and a homemade chocolate chip cookie!
Mary's Dairy: 171 West 4th St., (212) 242-6874.
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